First off, my hands are all sticky now. Wear gloves!

I just got done windo-welding my front and rear engine mounts (roll stops). Man oh man do I feel the difference. There is more vibration at idle, which I felt none before. It reduced my road noise, road vibration, and eliminated rough takeoffs which I thought was from my clutch. Not to mention it stopped the bucking when I let off my clutch and the bouncing when I was trying to maintain speed in a parking lot. I can't say enough about this stuff. It's good stuff.

Including the caulk gun, it cost $20 at advanced auto parts. I found it in a metal caulk can labeled "Fast drying urithane" "windo-weld". I just wanted to make it known that you can get it there and it works well.

I havn't seen nearly enough threads on this to make me a full believer. I tried it on a whim. It worked very very well.

 

DIY with pics maybe????

 

^^ All you do is take off the rollstop bar on the bottom of your car.
No pix.. my camera didn't work. I had it there to take pix, but I couldn't 02.gif

Removing the rollstop bar:
Remove 4 10mm screws securing the mud flaps to the rollstop brace (the big metal piece under your engine).
Remove 4 17mm bolts from the rollstop brace. The rollstops should not be bearing any weight.
Remove 2 14mm rollstop bolts from the 2 engine mounts and the rollstop bar falls out.

Solidifying the front rollstop engine mount:
Remove the engine mount insert,
cover it in windo-weld
put it back in
wait until the project is completed without disturbing it.

Caulking the windo-weld in the rear engine mount:
apply a thin coat (about 1/4 inch thick) as deep as you can into the rear rollstop engine mount.
wait 2 hours, you can use a heat gun to speed drying
apply a thin coat as deep as you can....
wait 2 hours
repeat as necessary then put the sucker back together.

Oh, i applied too much, so I used a cutofff wheel to make it flush with the engine mount, but there's plenty of extra space so that was not necessary, I just did it to make it look neater before I put it back in and never see it again.

 

^^Good enough. Thanks.

 

you REALLY REALLY need to clean the mount extremely well. otherwise it wont bond to it, and will not last very long. spend more time preping it then anything else. i use brake clean and a tooth brush to get in there as much as possible, then wipe all area's with a rag. ive done, and sold quite a few sets, and if your prep work is done well, it will hold for years.

 

^^ I hope my 409 clean works.

 

yeah, i got a solid steel rear mount and a windowwelded front mount with a better bushing that stock..

not that much more vibration at idle and you can really feel the difference in a positive way.

 

i'm guessing it's a cheap alternative to polyurethane engine mounts?

 

^

yup.

its mainly done bvy people modding car's that have no aftermarket support. so its the best you can do yourself without major machining being done.

 

shit, aint even major machining.. just need two 1/4" thick plates for each side of mount welded on with a hole in the middle..