What is the point of having a timing belt instead of chain??
#1
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Vehicle: 2001 Tib
What is the point of having a timing belt instead of chain??
My friend has an 03 G35 with 260k miles... timing chain still perfectly good. And that car has been drifted, auto-crossed, drag raced, been through all of America, been in 2 bad wrecks, blah blah blah...
I HATE it how some cars if you drive them "aggressively" like this, you gotta change the timing belt in ~60k miles... like Hyundai's. Can someone explain to me what is the point of using a belt instead of a chain?
I HATE it how some cars if you drive them "aggressively" like this, you gotta change the timing belt in ~60k miles... like Hyundai's. Can someone explain to me what is the point of using a belt instead of a chain?
#2
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Google is your friend. First hit: http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Arch.../msg02133.html
edit: oh, and you want to replace a belt at 60k miles because that's how long Hyundai designed their belts to last. A dealership tech will tell you a few don't even make it that long. My parts car came cheap because the original lasted 165k and failed during rush hour . . . YMMV
edit: oh, and you want to replace a belt at 60k miles because that's how long Hyundai designed their belts to last. A dealership tech will tell you a few don't even make it that long. My parts car came cheap because the original lasted 165k and failed during rush hour . . . YMMV
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Vehicle: 2001/Hyundai/Tiburon
My Tiburon has both. The timing belt attaches to just the exhaust camshaft and a timing chain is on the opposite end of that cam to drive the intake cam.
I beat the hell out of my car and did my first timing belt change around 95,000. The belt was still in decent condition. @ 150,000 I had to replace the HLA's so I replaced the timing belt and chain since I had the cams out. The original timing chain had a deflection of over 1/2 inch when pressing on the chain between the cams. After I put it all back together there was less than a 1/16th of an inch deflection on the new chain.
I like this design better than honda engines with DOHC's that drive both cams off the same belt.
I beat the hell out of my car and did my first timing belt change around 95,000. The belt was still in decent condition. @ 150,000 I had to replace the HLA's so I replaced the timing belt and chain since I had the cams out. The original timing chain had a deflection of over 1/2 inch when pressing on the chain between the cams. After I put it all back together there was less than a 1/16th of an inch deflection on the new chain.
I like this design better than honda engines with DOHC's that drive both cams off the same belt.
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Because the chain gives you an alarm bell when the tensioner or guides are out of service limit. When you hear the rattling, its time to change those parts, and normally, just those parts.
#8
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1) Belts are Cheaper for OEMs
2) Engine oiling is simplified because you don't need to supply oil to the timing set
3) Changing a timing belt is tons easier and quicker
4) Runs quieter
5) Allows the Dealer to make some cash because the car has to be brought in more often for belt changes lol
2) Engine oiling is simplified because you don't need to supply oil to the timing set
3) Changing a timing belt is tons easier and quicker
4) Runs quieter
5) Allows the Dealer to make some cash because the car has to be brought in more often for belt changes lol
#9
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Vehicle: 2002 Hyundai Elantra
in all honesty, I really don't mind either system. The Timing belt on the Tib is nice because I can do that in just over an hour in my driveway, and the Timing Chain on my Nissan's is nice because I don't really have to worry about them. Although, when I put the cams in the KA I will be removing two of my guides.
Really depends on the Motor. The KA's and SR's are known for Timing chain rattles like a mofo but on the KA you can remove the upper two chain guides and not cause an issue. In fact in one of the TSB's I believe it says to remove it because in later models they didn't have it. The same holds true for the SR, I removed the upper timing chain guide before I dropped the motor into the car. The new VQ's and Q motors are much much quieter and don't really have any noise to them, at least in my opinion.
Really depends on the Motor. The KA's and SR's are known for Timing chain rattles like a mofo but on the KA you can remove the upper two chain guides and not cause an issue. In fact in one of the TSB's I believe it says to remove it because in later models they didn't have it. The same holds true for the SR, I removed the upper timing chain guide before I dropped the motor into the car. The new VQ's and Q motors are much much quieter and don't really have any noise to them, at least in my opinion.