What Do You Need To Make A Beta Rev To 9000 Rpm ?
#5
Reving the motor significantly past it's torque/hp peak is pointless.
Unless you do something to the engine to alter the powerband, you'll be lucky to end up with about 75 HP(43/44 Ft Lbs of torque) at 9000 RPM (look at a beta dyno chart, and how fast Torque/HP tail off after 6500 RPM).
Once you've done engine work, and show a dyno that makes power to the 6750 redline, then you know you need to extend the engine's RPM. Otherwise, you're just creating extra noise, and extra wear.
Unless you do something to the engine to alter the powerband, you'll be lucky to end up with about 75 HP(43/44 Ft Lbs of torque) at 9000 RPM (look at a beta dyno chart, and how fast Torque/HP tail off after 6500 RPM).
Once you've done engine work, and show a dyno that makes power to the 6750 redline, then you know you need to extend the engine's RPM. Otherwise, you're just creating extra noise, and extra wear.
#6
To make the beta rev AND make power there... you need the above and more.
the 1.8 is a good place to start due to the shorter stroke.
Stronger valve springs ARE a must to avoid valve float
You are going to need to lighten and balance EVERYTHING that moves in the engine. Crank, rods, and pistions.
Long duration cams. The Cams you will need to allow the engine to make power after the stock redline. As Random stated, our engines do not have much after that point. You will need to put in aftermarket cams to enable it to breath properly.
You will also probably need to port and polish the head, An airram to get more air in, Big Bore Throttle Body, and exhaust work.
Then you get to deal with getting fuel into the cylinders at 9thousand rpms. The stock ECU is going to have a fit and your stock injectors are probably going to fail open and just pour unmetered fuel into the cylinders.
the 1.8 is a good place to start due to the shorter stroke.
Stronger valve springs ARE a must to avoid valve float
You are going to need to lighten and balance EVERYTHING that moves in the engine. Crank, rods, and pistions.
Long duration cams. The Cams you will need to allow the engine to make power after the stock redline. As Random stated, our engines do not have much after that point. You will need to put in aftermarket cams to enable it to breath properly.
You will also probably need to port and polish the head, An airram to get more air in, Big Bore Throttle Body, and exhaust work.
Then you get to deal with getting fuel into the cylinders at 9thousand rpms. The stock ECU is going to have a fit and your stock injectors are probably going to fail open and just pour unmetered fuel into the cylinders.
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2003 hyundai accent beta swap
QUOTE (Random @ Aug 12 2005, 02:19 PM)
Reving the motor significantly past it's torque/hp peak is pointless.
Unless you do something to the engine to alter the powerband, you'll be lucky to end up with about 75 HP(43/44 Ft Lbs of torque) at 9000 RPM (look at a beta dyno chart, and how fast Torque/HP tail off after 6500 RPM).
Once you've done engine work, and show a dyno that makes power to the 6750 redline, then you know you need to extend the engine's RPM. Otherwise, you're just creating extra noise, and extra wear.
Unless you do something to the engine to alter the powerband, you'll be lucky to end up with about 75 HP(43/44 Ft Lbs of torque) at 9000 RPM (look at a beta dyno chart, and how fast Torque/HP tail off after 6500 RPM).
Once you've done engine work, and show a dyno that makes power to the 6750 redline, then you know you need to extend the engine's RPM. Otherwise, you're just creating extra noise, and extra wear.
ok now that is what i havd planden for my motor
1.8L beta 1 block
2.0L beta 2 cvvt head
racing cams 284° and 11.5mm lift "custom beacuse of cvvt"
Valve Springs
Shark Racing Adjustable Cam Sprocket
TigerLily Individual Throttle Body from real-engineering.com
bigger injectors 590cc
83mm Forged Aluminum High-Compression Piston Kit from hyundaiperformance.com
Connecting Rods (still did not find plz help)
Tuscani 2.0 Inazma Wire EX from kspec.com
GT Headers - Tuscani from kspec.com
Ferrea Valves from importperformanceparts.net
lighten and balance Crankshaft
with that will i be able to rev to 9000rpm
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Sounds like you are putting the cart before the horse.
LISTEN TO WHAT RANDOM TELLS YOU, he's been doing this since before anyone.
1. Why the CVVT Head? How are you going to use it? You going to swap all the wiring and ECU from another car?
2. Why TUSCANI parts? LOL That makes no sence.
3. Why intake cam sprockets? Even more so, why from SHARK RACING?
4. Why do you want to rev to 9000 RPM? Just to say you can? Your PEAK HP will be LESS then that, like Random said, WEAR AND TEAR.
I guess about 1/2 of the items you have listed won't work or just aren't needed, especially for N/A.
New valves? wtf.gif
LISTEN TO WHAT RANDOM TELLS YOU, he's been doing this since before anyone.
1. Why the CVVT Head? How are you going to use it? You going to swap all the wiring and ECU from another car?
2. Why TUSCANI parts? LOL That makes no sence.
3. Why intake cam sprockets? Even more so, why from SHARK RACING?
4. Why do you want to rev to 9000 RPM? Just to say you can? Your PEAK HP will be LESS then that, like Random said, WEAR AND TEAR.
I guess about 1/2 of the items you have listed won't work or just aren't needed, especially for N/A.
New valves? wtf.gif
#10
Ditch the CVVT head. It's not worth the hassle of obtaining cams. It would also make it damn near impossible to properly "degree/advance/retard" the aftermarket cams. You'd also have to find an aftermarket ECU that would understand/support the damn F-ed up Hyundai adjustable cam timing system. (non currently that I'm aware of).
Ditch the Individual TB's. For half the cost get an AirRam and a big Throttle Body. The Individual Throttle bodies will make your car basiclly undriveable and littleraly triple the cost to tune the aftermarket ECU to the setup.
If you go with forged con-rods, you can take a stock 2.0L to 8000 or 8500. You could easily get a 1.8L to 9000 with forged rods. They would need to be a custom order from Crower or Pauter. Considering that the 2.0L rods are easily available, and fairly low cost... it's a no brainer. Go 2.0L block/rods/crank.
You'll need some kind of standalone ECU to support fueling/rpm's to 9000, that also understands/can control hyundai's goofy CVVT system. Ditch the CVVT and go with a normal standalone ECU.
For the amount of money you are talking about (Easily $10,000), you'll be lucky to get 250 WHP. You'd be MUCH better off going budget N/A and saving your money, or going with a turbo kit. Let's face facts...it just doesn't make sense to go this route just to get 9000 RPM.
Ditch the Individual TB's. For half the cost get an AirRam and a big Throttle Body. The Individual Throttle bodies will make your car basiclly undriveable and littleraly triple the cost to tune the aftermarket ECU to the setup.
If you go with forged con-rods, you can take a stock 2.0L to 8000 or 8500. You could easily get a 1.8L to 9000 with forged rods. They would need to be a custom order from Crower or Pauter. Considering that the 2.0L rods are easily available, and fairly low cost... it's a no brainer. Go 2.0L block/rods/crank.
You'll need some kind of standalone ECU to support fueling/rpm's to 9000, that also understands/can control hyundai's goofy CVVT system. Ditch the CVVT and go with a normal standalone ECU.
For the amount of money you are talking about (Easily $10,000), you'll be lucky to get 250 WHP. You'd be MUCH better off going budget N/A and saving your money, or going with a turbo kit. Let's face facts...it just doesn't make sense to go this route just to get 9000 RPM.