Weekend Project: BIM (lots of PICS)
05-29-2002 | 02:32 AM
#1
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Weekend Project: BIM (lots of PICS)
I installed my BIM this weekend, and here are some pics
I also beleive that these BIM from onpol are acid dipped as well as ported, so its MUUUUTCH better then doing it yourself.
General tips:
1.If you take it off the stock IM, put it on the BIM if at all possible so you don't get lost later
2.slow and steady, don't get gunk in the ports
3.this is mutch easier with 2 people, especially for the bracket
I'm going to re-do my website and put all my DIY and pictures together. i'll also do a mutch better DIY.
Bored Intake Manifold
Bored Intake Manifold runners
Engine Port
Bored Intake Manifold Intake
Stock Intake Manifold runners
Stock Intake Manifold inlet
I also beleive that these BIM from onpol are acid dipped as well as ported, so its MUUUUTCH better then doing it yourself.
General tips:
1.If you take it off the stock IM, put it on the BIM if at all possible so you don't get lost later
2.slow and steady, don't get gunk in the ports
3.this is mutch easier with 2 people, especially for the bracket
I'm going to re-do my website and put all my DIY and pictures together. i'll also do a mutch better DIY.
Bored Intake Manifold
Bored Intake Manifold runners
Engine Port
Bored Intake Manifold Intake
Stock Intake Manifold runners
Stock Intake Manifold inlet
05-29-2002 | 02:50 AM
#3
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Next we remove the fuel rail
Remove the two fuel lines going to and from the fuel line (ones a hose, the other has two bolts)
Picture of IM without fuel rail
Pictures of BIM with fuel rail
IM removed
Remove the two fuel lines going to and from the fuel line (ones a hose, the other has two bolts)
Picture of IM without fuel rail
Pictures of BIM with fuel rail
IM removed
05-29-2002 | 03:02 AM
#4
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The bracket was a biatch.
You need to remove both screws that hold the IM up and just loosen the two nuts that hold the bracket into the engine block(only accessible from below).
Now just remove all 9 nuts from the IM that holds it onto the engine block, remove replace and undo the above.
Pretty simple. check out my BBTB pics for correct cable tensioning.
Here's a graph of my whp after i installed it. I felt the difference, alot smoother. You can feel the extra punch around 4k, but thats probably when i changed the 58mm ring to the 61mm and the cams are now working like they should wink super sweet. Anyway, to analize the graph, previously i was doing 147ps, now i'm doing about 158, so thats a 11hp gain, but thats the all the mods finally working. Power band peak moved down about 500-700rpm, so i'm getting more power earlier.
The graph cuts off at 5600rpm. The peak was 5568rpm@158hp. Now i'm going to tune my s-afc and get some more power from this biznitch smile.gif
You need to remove both screws that hold the IM up and just loosen the two nuts that hold the bracket into the engine block(only accessible from below).
Now just remove all 9 nuts from the IM that holds it onto the engine block, remove replace and undo the above.
Pretty simple. check out my BBTB pics for correct cable tensioning.
Here's a graph of my whp after i installed it. I felt the difference, alot smoother. You can feel the extra punch around 4k, but thats probably when i changed the 58mm ring to the 61mm and the cams are now working like they should wink super sweet. Anyway, to analize the graph, previously i was doing 147ps, now i'm doing about 158, so thats a 11hp gain, but thats the all the mods finally working. Power band peak moved down about 500-700rpm, so i'm getting more power earlier.
The graph cuts off at 5600rpm. The peak was 5568rpm@158hp. Now i'm going to tune my s-afc and get some more power from this biznitch smile.gif
05-29-2002 | 05:27 AM
#6
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
For future reference. The MAP based beta motors use a different IM, TB and IM brace.
I'm going to try to see if the MAF IM will bolt up to the MAP IM head, and vice versa, and also see if those brackets will swap.
The MAP Beta has just 2 small light pipes to replace that large "tounge" brace that the earlier motors use. It should save a couple of pounds, and make it much easier to install/remove the IM. I'll have photos up to explain my rambling later this week...
I'm going to try to see if the MAF IM will bolt up to the MAP IM head, and vice versa, and also see if those brackets will swap.
The MAP Beta has just 2 small light pipes to replace that large "tounge" brace that the earlier motors use. It should save a couple of pounds, and make it much easier to install/remove the IM. I'll have photos up to explain my rambling later this week...
05-29-2002 | 06:13 AM
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yip, they ported all of the damn thing. Super sweet. Probably the best mod for the tiburon. BBTB&BIM is my number 1 right now, and headers and exhaust is number 2. Forgot about the CAI, but everone SHOULD have one of those wink
05-29-2002 | 10:47 AM
#9
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Wow.
How long did it take total?
I may have to get moved up on the list due to my heading to Korea in July. If I can't, I'm going to have to be removed from it.
I'm a bit confused on all the connections and stuff, but it looks perty easy. Just take it off, put it on the new one, put the new one on eh?
Can't wait for the full write up though. How many Corona's did it take? Oh, and did you have to bleed the fuel system or any other fluids first?
How long did it take total?
I may have to get moved up on the list due to my heading to Korea in July. If I can't, I'm going to have to be removed from it.
I'm a bit confused on all the connections and stuff, but it looks perty easy. Just take it off, put it on the new one, put the new one on eh?
Can't wait for the full write up though. How many Corona's did it take? Oh, and did you have to bleed the fuel system or any other fluids first?
05-29-2002 | 01:26 PM
#10
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it took a couple hours. The first time i did it, it was longer i think. Dunno, you'll have to check with yellowtib on that, i can't remember how long it was. But its fairly simple, its just a couple pain in the ass nuts that take the most time.
As for the fuel line, just remove the the fuel line. It'll piss gas but only from the fuel rail. After that its good. then just hook it back up wink
The biggest bitch was getting the connectors off the injectors. That's a two person job, well the first time i did it. I think i found a easier method of doing it. Yellowtib and i did it by one person holding and prying the little metal bracket up while the other person grabbed it with a pliers and then pulling. That worked ok. but if you can get a very small flathead screwdriver to flip the metal bit over the tooth, then you could just pull it out..........well now your all lost, but i'll post pictures in the how-to.
As for the fuel line, just remove the the fuel line. It'll piss gas but only from the fuel rail. After that its good. then just hook it back up wink
The biggest bitch was getting the connectors off the injectors. That's a two person job, well the first time i did it. I think i found a easier method of doing it. Yellowtib and i did it by one person holding and prying the little metal bracket up while the other person grabbed it with a pliers and then pulling. That worked ok. but if you can get a very small flathead screwdriver to flip the metal bit over the tooth, then you could just pull it out..........well now your all lost, but i'll post pictures in the how-to.