Valve cover leakage
#1
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looks like oil is seeping from my valve cover where the gasket is...i'm gonna say right now that i wouldn't doubt if i need to replace the gasket, but could anything else be wrong? internally?
#2
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Valve cover leakage
i would agree with you, that the gasket has said enough is enough..
If the gasket was replaced beefore, it may not of been cleaned properly.. and the gasket ccould not adheve well, cause gaps and allowing oil to come out.
worse case scenerio, i can think of.. a bad crack in the block.. i said.. worse case scenerio..
If the gasket was replaced beefore, it may not of been cleaned properly.. and the gasket ccould not adheve well, cause gaps and allowing oil to come out.
worse case scenerio, i can think of.. a bad crack in the block.. i said.. worse case scenerio..
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it's the orginial gasket...me and my dad replaced the gasket on my sisters cavy a while ago for the same problem...my dad's cutlass had a similar problem...but it wouldn't idle right either...and he basically never took care of the car cause he just wanted to get rid of it (donated to salvation arm i do believe)...i don't think it's anything major, i'm sure i'd notice a little more if i had a cracked block...
#4
It only costs around $20 to get a new gasket.
I just replaced my valve cover gasket on Sunday. It is really easy and only takes about an hour at most. The thing that took me the longest was just figuring out what bolts needed to be removed and then trying to pry the cover off without breaking it. However, I missed a small piece of the valve cover when I reinstalled it (a little metal ring that the bolts go through). When I found the part (it was actually stuck to the old gasket and I just didn't see it), it only took me about 15-20 min. to take everything apart and put it back together again.
Just be carefull how hard you screw the bolts back in. HMA Service says it is only to a torque of about 8 ft-pounds, which is nothing. You don't need a torque wrench to do it, just be careful you don't crack the plastic.
I just replaced my valve cover gasket on Sunday. It is really easy and only takes about an hour at most. The thing that took me the longest was just figuring out what bolts needed to be removed and then trying to pry the cover off without breaking it. However, I missed a small piece of the valve cover when I reinstalled it (a little metal ring that the bolts go through). When I found the part (it was actually stuck to the old gasket and I just didn't see it), it only took me about 15-20 min. to take everything apart and put it back together again.
Just be carefull how hard you screw the bolts back in. HMA Service says it is only to a torque of about 8 ft-pounds, which is nothing. You don't need a torque wrench to do it, just be careful you don't crack the plastic.
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thanks guys appreciate it...since i'm at school i need to find a place where i can do it, i think of of the guys in the Virginia Tech car club has a garage that i can use....
where'd u get the gasket from?
where'd u get the gasket from?
#7
I bought mine from the dealership. They gave me wholesale pricing, which was $5-$10 cheaper than retail.
I don't have a garage either and just did it outside of my house on a calm day (no wind).
Here's the tools you will need:
10mm socket, with rachet and extenstion bar - all of the bolts are 10mm
screwdriver - to pry off the cam cover
really long needle-nosed pliers - oh wait, that is just me, when I drop tools into spots where I can't get my hands :roll:
razorblade - to scrape off any of the old gasket, if any sticks when you rip it off
rubbing alcohol or similar cleaner and cleaning pads (I bought the ones chicks use for removing their makeup) - for the edge of the cam cover and block where the gasket seals to. Make sure it drys before you put everything back together. It only takes a minute or 2.
rvg - this is just a backup, you probably won't need it.
diaelectric grease - for your spark plug wires when you reconnect them to your plugs.
rubbing alcohol+rvg+diaelectric grease+razorblade = around $10
I think that is pretty much it.
Good luck.
I don't have a garage either and just did it outside of my house on a calm day (no wind).
Here's the tools you will need:
10mm socket, with rachet and extenstion bar - all of the bolts are 10mm
screwdriver - to pry off the cam cover
really long needle-nosed pliers - oh wait, that is just me, when I drop tools into spots where I can't get my hands :roll:
razorblade - to scrape off any of the old gasket, if any sticks when you rip it off
rubbing alcohol or similar cleaner and cleaning pads (I bought the ones chicks use for removing their makeup) - for the edge of the cam cover and block where the gasket seals to. Make sure it drys before you put everything back together. It only takes a minute or 2.
rvg - this is just a backup, you probably won't need it.
diaelectric grease - for your spark plug wires when you reconnect them to your plugs.
rubbing alcohol+rvg+diaelectric grease+razorblade = around $10
I think that is pretty much it.
Good luck.
#9
LOL, so long as your oil is full, you don't have anything to worry about (unless it is leaking onto your timing belt). I drove my car over 4 months with a leaking gasket - it just got the engine dirty and I had to put in another litre of oil in between oil changes.
If you are strapped for cash, you can always buy a cheap socket set from Wal-Mart, and everything else I mentioned (other than the gasket). I'm pretty sure they have some for around $5-$10. It's not a bad idea to have a few tools in your car "just in case" anyways.
If you are strapped for cash, you can always buy a cheap socket set from Wal-Mart, and everything else I mentioned (other than the gasket). I'm pretty sure they have some for around $5-$10. It's not a bad idea to have a few tools in your car "just in case" anyways.