OK, now I've replaced my fuel pump (pretty dirty screen and prob needed to be replaced soon anyway). I just replaced the Crank Position Sensor with a new one (I JUST got home so I haven't told Ericy that I don't need his.. thanks very much by the way E!)

STILL WONT START but turns over freely. I'm kicking myself for not doing the fuel filter first like RedZman said but I will do that next. If THAT doesn't work.... BOOM!

Any other ideas or am I doing the right thing?

 

Sounds good man. Try taking that one back then

 

This is not hard man....

Check the sparkplugs directly if your getting spark. Pull them out and ground them on the manifold and have someone crank. Use pliers to hold the sparkplug or your hair may rise tongue.gif

If you have strong spark, check to see if your injectors arn't clogged. If those are good check to make sure you have good compression on all cylinders.

If they engine IS turning over, that is all you need to check. Do you have any engine codes? Plug a obdII reader in, turn your car to ACC and let it read any codes. Also when cranking try with half the throttle down.

 

I pulled the plug wires from the head and grounded them against the block. They spark quite nicely. I don't need to pull the plugs, I'm sure that spark is getting to them and into the cylinder. And could all four injectors crap out at exactly the same moment?

No codes, no CEL anyway. I don't have a tester and I will NOT tow it to be put on a machine. If I can't figure this out, I'm blowing it up in the driveway!

No throttle, full throttle, 1/2 throttle.... nothing.

I'm pretty damn sure it's not getting fuel to the injectors and now the only thing left is the filter which could explain the intermittant poor running/starvation for two days and then a total loss of fuel right?

 

You've verified fuel pump operation and spark. Good on you, but there's some other things that are vital to check.

First, do a visual vacuum leak check. That's a big no-start concern.

You did pretty good on your other diagnostics, but you didn't verify compression, or that you actually have fuel being delivered to your engine. Easiest is to check pulse to the injectors. Using a test light, hook the clamp to the positive terminal of the battery, remove one of the injector harness clips, and probe the terminal that corresponds to the wire that is not red/white, since that's the 12v wire. The ecu pulses the injector with ground, so have someone spin the engine over and verify a pulse at the light.

If that's ok, get a cheap compression gauge, probably 20 bucks at a harbor freight tools, and check compression.

 

How do you know you have no engine light on when you can't even start your car?

Replace fuel filter, check if you have a big vacuum loss than try starting it. If a no go, look at your injectors.

 

Like I had said, the car ran crappy for a mile or two one morning then cleared up. Second day, it did the same thing. Third day, it wouldn't start at all. So as you can see, it had this intermittant problem for two days and never threw a code. That's why I said it had no code, I figured if it was going to , it would have done it in those two first days because it was really running terrible for those two periods.

I'll do the injector test (thanks!) but I can't for the life of me figure out why I'd have no compression. If the engine is turning over, why would I have no compression? Would that mean the valves are stuck open?

I have an aftermarket exhaust with a header which is pretty throaty and I can hear the exhaust thumping out the tailpipe when it turns over. Doesn't that mean I'm getting compression?

Can I check to see if there's any fuel pressure while cranking or disconnect the line somewhere while someone cranks it to see if fuel comes out into a catch can?

 

I took off the fuel line on top of the filter and turned the car over expecting fuel to shoot out, It didn't. I jumped the fuel pump and gas just went everywhere!

Why would the fuel pump not come on with the key but works fine when jumping it from the battery?

I'm frustrated and lost at this point as my secondary car just crapped out too. 02.gif

 

Fuel pump does NOT get a signal to fire unless the crank position sensor senses the crank going past it.

Did you turn it over to see if you got fuel?

I mean with the rail off?

Did you check/test your ckp?

Get some pictures of the engine bay in that area, so we can look at the wiring.

The CKP doesn't fail often, but it can. Mine actually had the bolt back out, as I hadn't torqued it correctly, and was just loose enough to where it didn't get a signal, so the fuel pump didn't fire.

Re read that, so now I know what's up. Your CKP, or something in the wiring between it and the ECU, is bad.

Now you just gotta search it out. Look for crimped wiring, cracked or broken wiring, tears, wears, ect.

 

OK, I'll look for that. I put a new CKP in yesterday with no change. So you think the wiring between there and the CPU is messed up.

Just to make sure, is it possible for all this to occur with a bad ECU itself?

And thanks a lot for the help. You must know how frustrating this is!

SO I need to cut open the wiring that goes all the way up to the ECU? Is there a safe wat to do this?