Not filled, solid. As in, a billet of aluminum w/ the steel bolt hole insert in the middle.

I have the spare mounts. I have the aluminum.

Should I?

Or should I use the 3M windo-weld like most folks've done?

Does anyone have a long-term report they want to give on how the window weld has held up mounted to a hot engine for a couple of years?

 

How much torque are you putting down?

Is this a race car? DD?

Socks put solid mounts on his tib. Ask him for feedback but IMO, overkill if its a street car or your not over 300ft.tq. Shakes the living crap out of everything. Plus on a stock uniframe, over time you'll end up distorting and bending. You need reinforcement.

 

i had a solid rear mount, and a front 3M filled mount... kept movement to a minimum, but didn't resonate much vibration because of the poly filled mount.

i definitely would NOT do front and rear solid mounts.

like tanc said, by going solid with the unibody, theres a big chance that that stress of the engine wanting to move is going to find a weak spot and bend/tear/break it.

my biggest reason for my solid mounts was engine movement. i had an air ram, with a 1" fuel spacer, and without the solid mount, my TB pulley slammed into my firewall. on the exhaust side, my wastegate punched a hole in my radiator. lmao.gif

you could also go with a rear solid, and one of those engine dampers, or a front poly mount. that would make everything feel alot smoother without adding much noticable vibration.

 

i would recommend against solid mounts. i had hockey pucks press fit into the front and rear rollerstoppers (perfect fit). the dashboard vibrated like crazy, all the time but especially in cold weather.

so i changed back to stock mounts. but the car definitely jerks more at slow speed, eg driving around parking lots. i'm hoping an engine damper will help. i might try 3M filled mounts too.

the hockey pucks were great for performance, but the tradeoff wasn't worth it to me.

 

What I did for my fronts and rears was I made mounts out of nylon. They stop all engine movement and absorb some of the vibration still. At idle and when I went hard on the gas there was not really any annoying ratlles throughout the car or anything. Well worth it, just took the time and machine to make them.

 

Alrighty then, window weld it is. The engine bounces too much for my liking, especially under hard acceleration, and I'm about to have a standard transmission in there to amplify the slop! I'm P&P'ing a cylinder head because a) I can and b) unnecessary mechanical inefficiency bothers me. Mounts, same deal.

Thanks guys!

 

I went with silicone because it was free.

The front mount for 1998 had a rubber insert that I put in there with silicone on both sides and then I filled the rest solid with silicone. The rear for 1998 was solid, no air gaps like for 2000. I filled part of one side with silicone and ran out. Running with both those on, I noticed a little more NVH at idle, but it is smoother under every other operating condition. Like, a LOT smoother. With my rusty manual transmission shifting skills, the engine not bouncing around makes the car jerk instead of the engine, but it really lays the power down better now.