After I install my OBX headers, and UD lightweight pulleys (both of which noteably IMPROVE the feel of shifting), if I still have this 1-2 shift problem, I will not hesistate to correct it, with the help of Level10.

I was originally thinking about getting the torque convertor by LevelTen, but now I've decided on something else

http://www.levelten.com/hydrosystem_us.htm

For the auto tranny in the Beta, there are some evident shifting deficiencies. It's been beaten to death in these forums. I'm getting my tranny recalibrated.

The shifting in my automatic is very UNcontrolled, as I have experienced over and over again. This makes driveability so inadequate and exhausting.

The Hydrosystem is available for our Hyundai imports, and probably later this summer before I head down to the Jersey shore, I'm going to take a drive up to their shop in Hamburg, NJ and possibly rent a car while they recalibrate my s***** transmission.

Comments?

 

$500 is way too much to ensure that your automatic shifts well.
It doesn't even give any HP increase or anything.
What's the point in that..
Swap to a manual, or buy a tranny from a junker that has only a few thousand miles. Those are two options that would be better and cheaper.

Sorry, but i think it's stupid.

 

Again, I'm not looking for a manual swap. I'm trying to keep the automatic, get the most out of it, and improve it's shift lag.

I should give Level10 a chance here, and tune my car differently here (the Beta IS Koreas most popular tuning platform) What I am investing some money into is a performance automatic transmission, and that's what Level10 is there for.

All out HP in an automatic is quite ridiculous, if you ask me. When my shifting isn't controlled, the power the car loses is immense! What could be better than a automatic where the computer shifts even faster?

Maybe your tranny is healthier than mine. And I disagree with you about the HP, because if it's minimizing heat build-up in the transmission, you're bound to squeeze out a couple more ponies.

Zoned, you and I have had big talk on 0-60 times, and a significantly quicker shift from 1st to 2nd its what is going to get you there faster than you and I are now.

By the way, a $1500-2000 manual swap isn't cheaper.tongue.gif

 

If it were me Id get a manual, I live in the city but Jax dosent have traffic like NJ so about the heat thing, I have a trans temp guage and it basically gets hotter as you drive because of the engines heat, they use the same thing for cooling (the readitor) so dont do it for the heat thing, I wouldnt mess with the tranny unless your gonna swap, so use the money for your next car of if you cant wait get in to tuning your feul and timing, or start saving for a turbo because thats how to get power from a beta, or start working on your suspension because that is a very important part of our cars for racing and street safety, do you race at all, drag autox, or 500 bucks can get you a nitrous setup then you can do this wave.gif to people

our cards take alittle over .5 secs to shift 1-2, seen by the gtech graph

 

low comp. pistons dont give hp either. in fact, they take away a bunch. these are things to ensure that the power will be reliable. upgrading an auto tranny is really good for bracket racing too.

dont make dumb comments, your smarter than that. slap.gif

 

No manual. Automatics aren't ideal for the street, this I know, but I'm taking a different route here as I describe.

How many RD2 tuners can freely say that they have a performance ATX, tuned by Level10? None. It's time that it's tried and tested

How do you know that Level10 uses the same cooling technique? If you could provide a valid source for your info, I wouldn't find it so hard to believe.

Racing places high heat demands on an automatic transmission, but with the help of levelten.. this is MINIMIZED sufficiently. Read some of the articles on some performance automatic transmission vehicles.

.5 seconds to shift from 1-2? Surely it can do better Ever bounce off the rev limiter? Our autos have that deficiency. That makes a shift from 1-2 1.5-2 seconds!

I dont race often, but I'm taking up some autoX and a few drag sessions this summer. I'm not interested in nitrous, because it is temporary power. Let's not start a nitrous discussion now

Yes, I am messing with the tranny. I do not trust a turbo, that's why I'm going N/A for instant power that does not lag, and doesn't require as much maintenance, and is MORE reliable for an everyday driver.

I'm curious.. why would I save money for my next car? I love my Tib, it's my pride and joy. Money will be invested into it until the motor, God forbid, blows.

 

For cooling I guess it wold stay much cooler with an aux trans cooler and remove it from the raditor cooler, I watch the temps they go up even on the highway because its right next to the engine, manuals prolly get that hot too

I dont know why you bounce off the rev limiter, Ive never done that dunno.gif

During my shift it shows I put more hp down than just flooring it in second, I think thats strange, but its like that for autos, even my dads friends vette we tested, as for manuals such as my dads evo the hp drops

as for the nitrous I still havent decided for myself yet because there is a straight away in the autox but Id go through too many bottles on the roads

turbo lag def isnt as bad as you think, ive driven turbo cars the last with a scrool type which i means it changes the a/r ratio so it spools up quick but dosent restrict to much up thee in high boost

mans arent that hard to drive, I feel a lot more comfortable with one and its not that hard because you dont have to hold the brake aat the light and you have control

for another car you are very limited with the tib IMO def in na form, its FWD which is also bad, its suspension is very good with mods but there are cars with a lot better, I am not talking about in the same calss, dont go into that, also the car is heavy, you can only do so much weigt reduction

ifyou are going to keep the tib for street driving and dont feel comfortable with a clutch go a head and do it, some clutches being very different than others, such as when I was younger I could use the 300zx clutch very easily and never stalled because it was so long and easy, but the evo has an extramly stiff clutch in which Ive stalled a few times when I was learning to drive stick

BTW in the autoxes I run I run with mostly vettes because it is held by the corvette club, I am faster than some but thats not the cars the modified vettes are just slightly modified and they are a lot faster, most do slicks and catback, I am not saying a vette is a car Id buy even if I had lots of money though, Id rather build a shelby cobra, or do what ive always wanted to do, make my own car company, like some of the racers of the past shelby, lam and so on

 

Will it really improve your 0-60 time?

I may not have read enough on their site, all I saw was that it increases the reliability and life of your tranny (that's why it's for high-performance applications)

Being that hyundai trannies are so cheap I think $1000 is a lot of money to spend putting your tranny on life-support, especially since the numbers you are going to be putting out on your N/A setup won't require that kind of special treatment. A regular (taken care of) auto tranny would do just fine, maybe the most you'd want to do is buy a cooler for it so the fluid doesn't get so hot if you plan to race a lot.


tibby01, if your using pistons as an example .. then this case would be like having a turbo running 4psi (on a beta motor that is lol.gif) and thinking you need forged pistons, it just doesn't make sense unless you're going to put them to use, it's overkill.

 

no man, people have had big problems boosting their auto tranny tibs. with low boost too. it is definately worth it, if he wants to keep the auto tranny.

 

is it possaibly that you could reprogram the TCU. the other computer that tells the sinilods in the tranny to shift the gears. i have ran it by my shop partners and they give me slap.gif but to my knowledge it has not been tryed...