Running LEAN!!!!
#1
Running LEAN!!!!
This question is for people who are running Turbos or Forced Indunction!
Is anyone running LEAN between 3000-4000rpms?
The reason i ask this is because i have my fuel pressure set to 38psi at idle on 440cc injectors.I have my S-AFC set to +40% on 3000 to 6500rpms.I do notice it running lean and as it hits 4000rpms it kicks in harder.Now im not sure if my ECU is FRIED but i do have a back up from my 1.8L ECU.My current one in teh car is a 2.0L ECU.
Also when i launch at 3000rpms it runs lean throughout the RPM range about TWO out of 5 TIMES.
For example when i race and launch at 3000rpms and do 5 tries it runs LEAN 2 of the times.This is really Weird!!!!
I recall someone having the same probem a while back and just wanted some feedback!
Thanks!!!
Is anyone running LEAN between 3000-4000rpms?
The reason i ask this is because i have my fuel pressure set to 38psi at idle on 440cc injectors.I have my S-AFC set to +40% on 3000 to 6500rpms.I do notice it running lean and as it hits 4000rpms it kicks in harder.Now im not sure if my ECU is FRIED but i do have a back up from my 1.8L ECU.My current one in teh car is a 2.0L ECU.
Also when i launch at 3000rpms it runs lean throughout the RPM range about TWO out of 5 TIMES.
For example when i race and launch at 3000rpms and do 5 tries it runs LEAN 2 of the times.This is really Weird!!!!
I recall someone having the same probem a while back and just wanted some feedback!
Thanks!!!
#4
QUOTE
Red:
I'm wondering if your MAF sensor is damaged... Do you have a spare one of those?
I dont have a spare one sad.gif I'm wondering if your MAF sensor is damaged... Do you have a spare one of those?
What do you think it can be?
My machanic wanted to know if our cars with over 50% throddle open run CLOSED or OPEN LOOP!!!
Also how can you tell it the ECU is fried?
#5
You would have to try REALLY HARD to fry an ECU; and typically a fried ECU results in the car not even running. It is near-impossible for an ECU to "go bad" -- if you fry it, it's typically dead.
I still think you're having some sort of problem with your MAF sensor. Try this:
Go to your local Radio Shack or electronics parts store. Ask the person at the desk for a can of non-residue electrical component spray cleaner. Go home, remove your MAF sensor, and spray down the little filament piece inside with this electrical cleaner...
Reattach the MAF and drive around; this may fix it.
I still think you're having some sort of problem with your MAF sensor. Try this:
Go to your local Radio Shack or electronics parts store. Ask the person at the desk for a can of non-residue electrical component spray cleaner. Go home, remove your MAF sensor, and spray down the little filament piece inside with this electrical cleaner...
Reattach the MAF and drive around; this may fix it.
#6
Thanks RED!
I will try this and see what happens.
Also i was thinking about another solution.Since my Low amps are set to -40% across the band and have my Fuel pressure set to 38psi at idle you think if i set it to 44psi at idle it might just fix the leaning problem betwwen 3000-4000rpms.
This also means i have to LEAN IT DOWN from 4000 to 6500rpms on my HIGH MAPS until i get it Dynoyed Tunned.
BTW,do our cars run OPEN or CLOSED LOOP after 50% Throddle OPENED?
I will try this and see what happens.
Also i was thinking about another solution.Since my Low amps are set to -40% across the band and have my Fuel pressure set to 38psi at idle you think if i set it to 44psi at idle it might just fix the leaning problem betwwen 3000-4000rpms.
This also means i have to LEAN IT DOWN from 4000 to 6500rpms on my HIGH MAPS until i get it Dynoyed Tunned.
BTW,do our cars run OPEN or CLOSED LOOP after 50% Throddle OPENED?