Hey guys, I've got to go about replacing a brand new TO bearing in my car cuz it would seem that the one from hyundai was a enormous piece of crap. Now I've had a few friends say that I might be able to skip a few steps from the directions webtech gives, as I don't have to pull the complete tranny out, just move it over enough to reach in and replace the TO bearing. Can anyone verify this? And if they are right, can someone tell me what steps I can avoid, because I was looking at the directions webtech was giving and they seem quite nasty, and I really can't afford to pay someone to put it in. Any help will be appreciated.

 

It will probably be to much trouble just "moving the trans over". You need to release the snapring to take the old one out and also line up the new one on the clutch fork. Also, to make the trans move enough, you will all but have to take it out of the car. It wasn't really that hard, I've done it twice in the past year and I've gotten it down to a 4 hour job. Also, removing that snapring was a b**** (at least for me) I screwed up my 4 month old Spec pressure plate and had to buy a new clutch set. Might want to replace everything since your in there and also get the flywheel machined.

 

Heeeelllll no! To answer simply.


The TOB is locked onto the pressure plate by a snap ring. You need to take the tranny off, then remove the pressure plate so you can spend an hour trying to remove the TOB from the plate. Then, when putting everything back together, you need to put the TOB on the tranny fork, then bolt up the tranny. Then the TOB snaps back into the plate when you move the slave cylinder's lever.

If you've done it before, then it shouldn't take more than 3 hours to do everything with some help lifting the tranny back on.

 

but i need a special tool for that snap ring right? and u guys didn't have any problems with that clutch piston or whatever the hell it is that needs to be pushed open with compressed air? i didn't really try to pull anything out, but webtech isn't very specific in its directions and i've never pulled a tranny before. and btw, it is a brand new VHR clutch and flywheel kit, just the kit i got didn't have a TO bearing, so i bought one from hyundai and it seems to be bad. but the whole reason i was led to believe it was bad was it was making in neutral when the clutch wasn't pushed in, and it disappeared when i pushed the clutch in. now, i don't hear that sound anymore. so i'm wondering if it's actually the TO bearing or what...but thanks for the help guys.

 

You need a snap ring tool. They have them at Autozone or whatever. It's a plier that works in reverse (opens instead of clamps down.
I have no clue what your talking about with compressed air.

The noise you're talking about does sound like the TOB.

 

It's much easier to remove the snap ring while the clutch is still bolted up to the flywheel. The spring fingers (if you know what I mean) are flat when it's bolted up, but when you unbolt it the fingers move in which makes it hard to get to the snap ring.

 

The compressed air thing I was talking about was for the removal of the clutch release cylinder, which webtech says you're supposed to pull:

Remove the clutch hose, valve plate, spring, push rod and boot.
Remove any dirt from the piston bore opening of the release cylinder.
Remove the piston from the release cylinder using compressed air.

Left me a bit confused, and I don't want to get down under the car, start pulling stuff to pull the tranny, and then find out I screwed up, cuz I've got to have the car ready by the end of the weekend. Did you guys follow webtech's directions exactly? Seems kinda complicated....

 

WTF!
All you need to do is unbolt the cylinder and tie it up out of the way.

 

So the webtech instructions are more than what actually needs to happen huh? That's kinda what I was hoping for....Anything I can skip on these directions?

Remove the battery (-) cable.
Remove the air duct.

Remove the air cleaner and air flow hose assembly.
Disconnect the backup light switch connector.
Disconnect the clutch tube and clip.
Remove the clutch release cylinder(Refer to the CLUTCH SECTION)

Remove the speedometer cable.
Remove the select cable and shift cable(Refer to MANUAL TRANSAXLE CONTROL SECTION)
Remove the starter motor mounting bolts.Remove the transaxle assembly upper connecting bolts.

Attach an engine host to the engine hooks.
Remove the transaxle mounting bracket and insulator.
Lift up the vehicle.
Remove the front tire.
Remove the under cover.
Remove the drain plug and drain the transaxle gear oil.

Disconnect the tie rod end, lower arm ball joint and drive shaft.
Remove the center member.
Remove the transaxle stay.
Remove the transaxle rear mounting bracket.
Remove the bell housing cover.

Remove the transaxle assembly lower mounting bolts with the transaxle assembly supported by a jack.
Remove the transaxle assembly.

 

No that's pretty much it.