Replacement Radiator Fans
#11
Random,
Is this the one I should order?
Web page for fan The FLX-220 one.
Thanks
[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: CyberGreg ]
Is this the one I should order?
Web page for fan The FLX-220 one.
Thanks
[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: CyberGreg ]
#12
Random if your using Thermo wrap to cover the manifold should this be good enough and not needing a fan?
Also an OEM should still do the trick in order to cool down the Turbo because i dont have A/C and this would be an inexpensive mod to do because spending about $180 and higher for a fan is a little out of my price range
The OEM should work fine
Also an OEM should still do the trick in order to cool down the Turbo because i dont have A/C and this would be an inexpensive mod to do because spending about $180 and higher for a fan is a little out of my price range
The OEM should work fine
#13
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CyberGreg-
That is the right one. You can also get it in RED, BLUE or YELLOW.
2-Uniq
If you are concered about the budget Install an AC condensor fan (it's smaller and thinner than the stock Cooling fan).
For either fan(s) wire up the left side fan to run anytime the ignition is on. Just mount a switch somewhere to shut if off for those times when you don't want it on.
That is the right one. You can also get it in RED, BLUE or YELLOW.
2-Uniq
If you are concered about the budget Install an AC condensor fan (it's smaller and thinner than the stock Cooling fan).
For either fan(s) wire up the left side fan to run anytime the ignition is on. Just mount a switch somewhere to shut if off for those times when you don't want it on.
#14
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Ok Tony you talked me into it, plus I do like them anyways, difference as far as rpms is so huge it's worth it with my turbo and manifold...
QUOTE
The 210 is a waste of money. Their *adjustable thermostat* is junk. Get the 220. It is the exact same fan minus the thermostat, and is thusly cheaper.
I will go with the 220, it's $193.95 and has to be ordered over the phone not online, anyone have any coupons to offer... lol
#17
Nah, it would just mean the fan would go off sooner, because it is more effective in cooling , so it will not stay on as long as the stocky.
I suppose they would be nicer to have in the summer heat.
::shrugs::
Cooling your engine is not always a good thing, is needs maintain a certain operating temperature range.
I suppose they would be nicer to have in the summer heat.
::shrugs::
Cooling your engine is not always a good thing, is needs maintain a certain operating temperature range.
#18
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9o7TiB7o9-
There is no advantage to this mod for N/A Tibbies. The stock thermostat is going to keep the coolant temp as close to 180 degrees as possible. @ 205 degrees coolant temp, the ECU kicks on the *big* fan (drivers side). It keeps it on until 192. The *small* (passengerside) fan only comes on when you turn the AC on. Your coolant could be 220 degrees, and the ECU will ONLY run the *big* fan. If you ever notice your car getting hot, and you are not moving very fast (under 30 mph), turn the AC ON. This will kick on the second fan and help cool things down. If you're going faster thatn 30 MPH, then you are already flowing more air than the stock *small* fan can flow, so turning on the AC is only going to *pre-heat* the air flowing through the radiator, and limit cooling.
I've done various different experiments with my fans, stock and FAL units. Keeping the *small* or passenger side fan running anytime the engine is on, seems to keep the coolant temps with the turbo more or less happy. When I had BOTH fans set to come on at the request of the ECU, the fans cooled the radiator coolant so fast, they would shut off after less than 60 seconds. Then the themostat would open, and they would kick back on again..and this cycle would repeat about every 60 seconds in slow moving (30 MPH or under) traffic. Once I rigged the Small fan to be on all the time, it operates the *big* fan more or less normally in terms of how often the big fan comes on, and how long it stays on compared to a N/A tibby. Extended boost driving makes it come on sooner, if I *granny shift* it never comes on.
I want to get a lower temp thermostat to cool things off a tad better, but those are only available in Korea. I've got Shark Racing searching for low temp units now.
Stock Thermostats are 180. I'm hoping for a 160.
No...removing your thermostat is NOT an option. The coolant moves around too fast to pick up heat off the engine, and also allows localized hotspotting. Trust me, do NOT remove the thermostat.
There is no advantage to this mod for N/A Tibbies. The stock thermostat is going to keep the coolant temp as close to 180 degrees as possible. @ 205 degrees coolant temp, the ECU kicks on the *big* fan (drivers side). It keeps it on until 192. The *small* (passengerside) fan only comes on when you turn the AC on. Your coolant could be 220 degrees, and the ECU will ONLY run the *big* fan. If you ever notice your car getting hot, and you are not moving very fast (under 30 mph), turn the AC ON. This will kick on the second fan and help cool things down. If you're going faster thatn 30 MPH, then you are already flowing more air than the stock *small* fan can flow, so turning on the AC is only going to *pre-heat* the air flowing through the radiator, and limit cooling.
I've done various different experiments with my fans, stock and FAL units. Keeping the *small* or passenger side fan running anytime the engine is on, seems to keep the coolant temps with the turbo more or less happy. When I had BOTH fans set to come on at the request of the ECU, the fans cooled the radiator coolant so fast, they would shut off after less than 60 seconds. Then the themostat would open, and they would kick back on again..and this cycle would repeat about every 60 seconds in slow moving (30 MPH or under) traffic. Once I rigged the Small fan to be on all the time, it operates the *big* fan more or less normally in terms of how often the big fan comes on, and how long it stays on compared to a N/A tibby. Extended boost driving makes it come on sooner, if I *granny shift* it never comes on.
I want to get a lower temp thermostat to cool things off a tad better, but those are only available in Korea. I've got Shark Racing searching for low temp units now.
Stock Thermostats are 180. I'm hoping for a 160.
No...removing your thermostat is NOT an option. The coolant moves around too fast to pick up heat off the engine, and also allows localized hotspotting. Trust me, do NOT remove the thermostat.
#19
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hey random what is the draw back of having the fans on if any. I mean if the engine likes to keep the coolant at 180 no more no less. I understand that part. But is there any reason why you'd want the fan off? Or if that question is confusing you, is there any advantage of having the fan off more often assuming the temp stays at 180 longer? I've been thinking of adding that coolant crap that is supposed to aid in heat transfer of the coolant by replacing the anti-freeze with just the additive and distilled water. I know it says the coolant is supposed to drop coolant temp by about 20 degrees but since the enigne wnats the temp at 180 I really dont think thats going to go anywhere too far below 180. So if I add this stuff all I see happening is that the fan will not come on as much. Unless of course if this crap is so good that it will allow the temp to stay well below 180 say at like 160. Which I highley doubt. Ive used this stuf in a supercharged v8 before and it works really well. And I have noticed my engine heats up the engine bay more than my camaro did for some reason. The hood even gets hot at times. So I decided to spend the $20 for this stuff again and run it in the radiator. But of course the camaro liked to be at 250 degrees otherwise it would actually bog down. smile.gif