from what ive read, there are a few people trying to flash our ECU, but its in the works

someone here on the site is trying to convert the united states version of our engine to a korean version, in non ricer terms, MAF to MAP, so we can really pump some boost into the beta motor

search for the post in the extreme mods forum !!!

what other cars have you modded before ??

 

I just noticed you did not mention rods... I would think about replacing those as well.

 

Uhm, why not? Registration is registration.




How do you figure that? Viper966 is running 12's with 310 HP in his. I don't see it taking 190 more HP to get into the 11's man. And while yes, he has a Haltec, I don't see it being NEEDED for those #'s, the research done here recently on the SMT6 shows that.




Again, on what basis do you say this? I don't see that. Never heard anyone else say it. Including Random.



Uhm. Nope.



FGR's are, and full gear sets, are available.



Why?



Add a tranny cooler. Under 100 bucks.



About 5 of these are available right now. Not custom either.



Again, your basis for this? Ask Viper966, I doubt he's running that compression. This year, I bet he gets into the 11's. Same with DJALKYD.



Duh. That's a given with anything over what, 300 HP?



I wouldn't say MAJOR, but new struts/springs and sway bars would be a must.



Not tons. Just a MSD maybe. Why do you go so overboard on everything?

 

Well, dunno where he lives, but if you register it here as a track car you don't need to pass emissions. Can't drive it on public roads in any way though. I believe most states are like that.

There is a major difference between running a 12.5 and running an 11.5, especially with FWD. I would imagine 500 to the front wheels is a pretty good guesstimate from what I've seen with other cars. Viper has run 12s with 310? Assuming slicks, thats still great driving. If its street tires, hes a god. tongue.gif

I used "everything" and "custom" as a broad term. Basically most of what is in the tranny would need to be redone. Synchros do not like running hard shifting at 4 times the power of the stock motor. He would at least need new ones. I never knew you guys had full gear sets available through KSpec. You can get anything can't ya? LOL. Duh, I know LSDs are available, Quaiffe and the like.

8.8:1 compression is not the best way to go in this instance. The Wisecos are great forged pistons, but I still would've went with something lower. It would undoubtedly save some trouble in the long run. I would go to at least 8.0:1...

 

Umm.. If its track ONLY, you dont even need a title, let alone registration.. He says this is not a daily driver (i assume not even street from the number he wants)..

 

the wiseco 20 over 8.8:1 pistons will be fine that 8.8:1 is asumed with a stock gasket my is a much thicker copper gasket which will lower the compression to right around 8:1 any lower than that good luck tryin to start the car

 

Wasn't sure if the gasket was slightly larger than stock or not. 8.0:1 is fine, just get a little work done on the tranny, a little more engine work (rods, valves, etc.) and get it running... BTW, my GSX is 7.0:1 and starts fine. tongue.gif

 

Really, i must have been misinformed, none the less i will be using the afore mention stuff give it a whirl and see what happens, hopefully an 11 second tib. Stranger things have happened people though columbus was crazy when he said the world was round.

 

It really depends on how much money you want to spend, and how long you want it to last.

If you're looking to only 'beat' on the car for awhile, and let it die a natural death...then I'd say you're more or less done, with the exception of SOME KIND of ECU helper/Standalone ECU. (SMT-6, Haltec, whateva).

However, if you want to keep/maintain this car and improve the performance over time...then you're not done by a long shot.

Stronger rods (pauter, crower, whatever your fav brand is)
re-Balance crank with new rods/pistons/rings/wristpin and bearings
Light-weight flywheel
remove un-needed accessories (power steering, AC)
Install under-drive/lightweight crank pully
Do some work on the head. The exhaust side needs some serious help, the intake side isn't nearly as bad).
pick up some performance cams (pick your own fav/flavor) You're gonna have a b**** of a time spooling up that turbo on the stock cam
You'll have to do something about the stock differential. The highest output I've seen on the stock Diff was 510-515 Ft Lbs (373WHP @ 3800 RPM). (it died at 374 WHP on a DYNO). The stock diff just won't take that much torque/power. You can try just welding it solid, but you can ONLY use it on the dragstrip. Otherwise, you'll have to pick up a quaife.

You'll also need a much beefier clutch/pressure plate. You may run into problems with the transmission casing itself (it is very soft/weak), but you won't know that until you push it/try it.

The stock axles have shown themselves to be a problem when used with high power/high grip (drag slicks). You can use em till them break. One cheap "upgrade" would be to use the axles from the automatic. They have better CV joints and a stronger/thicker center portion. However, if the auto-tragic axles still break, you'll have to get the DRIVESHAFTSHOP.com to make you a set of uber axles

You'll need some kind of suspension solution. I would reccomend some kind of coilover so you can adjust the weight/balance of the car.

I would replace all of the motor mounts with solid mounts, or at least very hard urethane.

I would also reccomend replacing all the suspension rubber bushings with urethane units from superpro. (www.superpro.com.au) or solid units.

The Hyundai wheel bearings are also not known for strength or longenvity. If you're starting with a older gen1/gen2, replace them now with generic units from Autoparts store/Summit. They may (or may not) last longer, but at least they are cheaper than the damn $$$$$ units from hyundai.

You'll need some kind of a short shifter. (pick your fav/flavor)

If you're going to use a turbo that big, Nitrous would sure help you get you spooled.

You also didn't mention what size/location/type of intercooler you plan on using.

If you plan on running 11's you'll need a roll cage, so you might as well strip the interior now, and start pricing them out.

I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting, but others will either chime in or remind me.

 

Holy Crap. hail.gif

I have only heard of such posts, but never experienced them.