Occasional Idle Problem
09-29-2005, 05:28 PM
#1
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After I insalled the airram, I have been having a slight idle problem every once and a while. I am almost sure that it is my idle air control motor, but I figured I would ask to see if anyone had a cheap or easy solution. And to see if anyone has had similar problems. Here is the problem. Every once and a while (not even every time I drive the car), when I am sitting at a red light or something (at idle of course). My car's idle speed will go down to about 600 rpm and my air fuel ratio (via the PLX) will go full rich (10:1 or lower). After about 4-5 seconds tops, the rpm goes up to about 1100 for a second and it goes back down to 800 and idles fine. I don't know exacty what causes this (I am damn near sure that it has to be the idle air control motor, maybe because it is mounted sideways 90 degrees from the stock position? - to accomodate the straight up and down hose connection of the airram.). Also, if I blip the throttle the idle goes back to normal. It has to be the IACM right? What could I do to correct the problem? Clean the idle motor or something? Maybe my TB is misadjusted, but that would mean it would idle like crap all of the time right? And one more thing, the car never stalls out when the idle goes down. Thanks guys. smile.gif
10-02-2005, 08:30 PM
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Location: South Korea where u car from fool
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you must run a longer pipe of the isc motor
like this --------]
i had the same problem with mine and its fixed it. so baisely i will try to explain in words
ok, run a long elbow type heater hose from under the airram and cap it with a k&n filter
like this --------]
i had the same problem with mine and its fixed it. so baisely i will try to explain in words
ok, run a long elbow type heater hose from under the airram and cap it with a k&n filter
10-02-2005, 10:19 PM
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won't work if he is running a US spec tib. We have an MAF injection system that requires EVERY bit of air to be metered before it reaches the intake manifold. Nice try Mad John.
I would check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), it is located right on the throttle body. My car also does this on occasion.
I would check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), it is located right on the throttle body. My car also does this on occasion.
10-03-2005, 09:49 AM
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Sorry, the fans have nothing to do with it. My tps was disconnected just about a week ago, but I fixed it and I have had this problem since before that anyway. I havent driven my car much lately, but it hasnt done it in about 4 days. Maybe it is because of the oil that was entering my intake and possibly messing up the maf readings?? When I put in the catch can, there was oil half way down the maf tube and it was puddled in the TB. This is because I didn't plug the hose coming from the PCV into the IM (didn't want the oil in there), so all of that oil has been going through the valve cover vent hose. I put the catch can in there and will wait to see if I still have the idle problem. ??? Thanks for so many replies everyone. Hopefully someone can find a solution as it seems quite a few of us have this problem. sad.gif
11-09-2005, 04:16 PM
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Sorry for the double post, just thought I should update this topic. Well, I still have the same problem, after swapping out the coil packs, IAC motor, MAF, putting in my factory wires (and the NGK's that are in good condition. So, I have also occasionally gotten misfire codes, but they go on and off. Could this problem have anything to do with the fact that I removed my EVAP canister? (even though I have no CEL for the canister). I hadn't had this problem at all before the airram so maybe there is a vacuum leak. But then I am confused as to why it only happens at idle and that my air/fuel ratio goes very rich. This is more annoying than ever now, it does it at every stop (as long as it idle's at least 30 seconds). Anyway, I tested resistance in my Nology Hotwires and came up with readings around 4-500 Kilo ohms. So I shipped them to Nology and they supposedly repaired them and have shipped them back out. I know that my original coil pack had corrosion in every high tension terminal. But the one that I replaced it with (got it from a car at a junkyard) has no corrosion. The high tension terminals are in spec. for their resistance values, but the harness side comes up around 1 ohm instead of .55 ohm's. So, would replacing my coil pack really fix my problem, or is it something else? Please help me out, it feels like I am driving a peice of crap when my car does this at a light. sad.gif I want my old, great running tib back lol. Thanks a lot guys, and sorry again for the double post. smile.gif
