mrrock

Put your old cam back in. What you can do is instead of the normal oil you use, use a 10-30 or simillar that meets GF-4 standards. It is an ultra fast flowing mineral oil which will increase the reponsiveness of your engine. Plus it's cheap which is good because you will need to top it up here and there. Maybee gap the spark plugs to 0.8mm. Use the ngk v grooves. Clean the induction system with the 3bond super engine conditioner. That's about it really. You can't take much further without any major work.I'm averaging 16.1 quarters on a 1.8. I also have 421 headers with a 2' straight through exhaust and a cai.

blitz

Tonight I'm goin' to test it again, if the result is the same I'll put my 2.0 cam back in ! I'll ask a friend of mine about this oil wink1.gif The induction system is clean smile.gif I also want to buy 4-2-1 headers , but the shipping to Bulgaria is very expensive!

I'll post the times and video

Savage99

I'm thinking mrrock knows his stuff. It pays to think the whole thing through. Years ago it was common for guys to dump big money on their small block V8s and find that their stock torque converters and rear-end gears wouldn't allow the engines to get up to productive rpms fast enough. I remember some pissed off kids that spent all they had on bolt ons designed to make power at high rpms and the cars just went slower..lol.

Not sure what that's worth for your particular problem but...for every action there is a reaction.

mrrock

Thanks mate! But I really don't know that much. When you take your car on to the dyno they always do it in third gear, as this is usually very close to a 1:1 ratio which will show you the closest figure to your actual engine power. And thats where the problem is with replacing your cam. It will show. The only way around it is by adjusting your engine timing, air fuel, and ignition. Not worth it for such a small gain. And you can't do it with the stock computer. What people seem to forget is that the factory gives you the optimum settings from start. A good average between fuel economy and performance. Plus they have to meet al the enviro standards.

SpideyShark

well i put my old cam back in, no difference in 2nd gear that i've noticed. i havent checked third yet seeing as i'm not supposed to go that fast.. haha. and i also checked to see if i had any intake or vacuum leaks and i do not. Does anyone know if it could be my o2 sensor? i recently put on some headers and had to extend the primary sensor to the downpipe because they didnt make a bung further up.. would this mess with the sensor at all?

Stocker

Your intake manifold.

The 1.8L cam has reviews from "no change" to "feels a little stronger at high engine speeds" on the Butt Dyno. You might not notice the change, but it would likely not get notably worse. The stock computer can compensate for *small* changes like the camshaft would give. Yes standalone or piggyback engine management *tuned properly* can get better performance (even on a stock engine).

HOWEVER

You said you changed the cam and the intake manifold. An intake manifold done wrong CAN cause much worse performance. Suspect the intake manifold!

mrrock

I didn't realise he had changed his intake manifold... Or did he change his air intake i.e induction?

Mr. Muffin

u guys took forever on that, sorry to lurk, but to compensate for the ported intake manifold its gonna need a bigger cam...
advancing the ignition might help a litte, the tune might get it to stock top end, but ur gonna be losing some low end power...

dont worry about it to much tho, i would bet its not a bad porting job, its just not mathamaticly the right size for resonence and everything.
a reground cam will net u way more power then any other mod at this point, $400+ tho. it will net you MORE then the 10 hp that they say on the site, and make everything flow more evenly http://kfxperformance.com/ixxocart/product...s-2292-261.html
if you dont have the money:
a good tune
retard the timing like 4-5 degrees
a throttle body
smooth out the head, beta heads are the biggest bottleneck (needs tools tho)


its change the cam or the head your choice, sorry to have to put it that way idk how much sence my post really made

blitz

I think my P&P is OK, but now I remember a friend of mine disconnected the hoses that are connected from the engin to the intake manifold and the CAI !!! He told me that I don't need them, cause they are only f***ing up my intake manifold (the inside of the manifold was really dirty beacause of the oil ) Do you think that might be the problem? The car starts and runs normal, idle is ok !

BayTib13

Easiest way would probably be to just hook 'em up if you still have em, or buy some new tubing, and just test run it and see.