My "Top Secret" Ram Air
#21
wont removing your turn signal like that for racing give the car more drag? with the signal in place the air mover around it but now it just goes into a hole so in turn wont this also slow you down a little?
#22
QUOTE
4CyLofFuRy:
wont removing your turn signal like that for racing give the car more drag? with the signal in place the air mover around it but now it just goes into a hole so in turn wont this also slow you down a little?
I sincerely doubt the car will be going fast enough to have any noticable effect.
wont removing your turn signal like that for racing give the car more drag? with the signal in place the air mover around it but now it just goes into a hole so in turn wont this also slow you down a little?
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2002 Beta Accent GSi
hmm cool. these remind me of mine wink
i kinda like that filter tho.. shame mines a 'local rice shop' filter for 20 bucks, and its about 6 mo old and i think its starting to suck ( or like u said not suck, haha) actaully its just seems like it'd fall apart in another 6 months.
mines on a 98 1.5L sohc tho.. and i have to take out the whole headlight.. or drill a hole in the engine bay wall to get to the space between the fender and the engine bay that the turn signal covers
i kinda like that filter tho.. shame mines a 'local rice shop' filter for 20 bucks, and its about 6 mo old and i think its starting to suck ( or like u said not suck, haha) actaully its just seems like it'd fall apart in another 6 months.
mines on a 98 1.5L sohc tho.. and i have to take out the whole headlight.. or drill a hole in the engine bay wall to get to the space between the fender and the engine bay that the turn signal covers
#24
hey, a filter's a filter...on track day use a K&N, but otherwise, any of the cone styles are adequate.
As for the foam filters...I'vd had many of the SF400 Ractive filters come in and out of my shop. Then, back in for an exchange with a cone. There's only one of my customers that is actually happy with the foam filter, and he drives a '91 legend with a muffler and 150k miles. Think he knows the difference? It's all about looks and keeping up with the jones'...and in this case the Jones' are HKS.
These filters do flow more air like Random said, but it's mot a happy smooth flow. It's all turbulent and flying in wacky directions, so it acutally slows it down, and since some of us here seem to be SO interested in that .00001 extra hp...there it goes, out the window with turbulence.
The entire basis of Ram Air is that the air collection unit(or funnel) is placed at the highest pressure spot in the front of the auto, then as speed increases, so should the air velocity increase for the entire length of the intake tract. Unfortunately, as the speed increases, so does the rolling effect of the air in front of the collection unit, until there is a power loss instead of gain due to the fact that the air cannot move into the collector fast enough to get out of its own way...it forms kind of a high pressure bubble.
Many race teams in all different leagues have been using this design(ram air) to recognize small gains that they otherwise couldn't find elsewhere(after they moved to dry sump, other little power secrets, aerodynamic changes, cheating, etc.). They don't get all that much power out of a ram air setup. The trans am WS6 sees like 5 extra hp at 100mph from all those fancy import-eating vents in the hood. Think about that...5 extra horses...seems like it's hardly worth it.
The setup that you have is kind of a *cool-air short-ram* for lack of a better term. You are simply letting cooler air into the engine bay and letting the filter suck it up...but most of it will follow the path of least resistence, and bypass the filter right into the rest of the engine bay.
Suggestions? Completely segregate the filter pod in a box(you pick the material) and have an intake hose pull the air into the box...change this to a ram air unit by placing a funnel-like contraption in the front of the car to collect the air at higher speed. The best you could hope to do is alleviate the vacuum in the intake tract.
g'day
As for the foam filters...I'vd had many of the SF400 Ractive filters come in and out of my shop. Then, back in for an exchange with a cone. There's only one of my customers that is actually happy with the foam filter, and he drives a '91 legend with a muffler and 150k miles. Think he knows the difference? It's all about looks and keeping up with the jones'...and in this case the Jones' are HKS.
These filters do flow more air like Random said, but it's mot a happy smooth flow. It's all turbulent and flying in wacky directions, so it acutally slows it down, and since some of us here seem to be SO interested in that .00001 extra hp...there it goes, out the window with turbulence.
The entire basis of Ram Air is that the air collection unit(or funnel) is placed at the highest pressure spot in the front of the auto, then as speed increases, so should the air velocity increase for the entire length of the intake tract. Unfortunately, as the speed increases, so does the rolling effect of the air in front of the collection unit, until there is a power loss instead of gain due to the fact that the air cannot move into the collector fast enough to get out of its own way...it forms kind of a high pressure bubble.
Many race teams in all different leagues have been using this design(ram air) to recognize small gains that they otherwise couldn't find elsewhere(after they moved to dry sump, other little power secrets, aerodynamic changes, cheating, etc.). They don't get all that much power out of a ram air setup. The trans am WS6 sees like 5 extra hp at 100mph from all those fancy import-eating vents in the hood. Think about that...5 extra horses...seems like it's hardly worth it.
The setup that you have is kind of a *cool-air short-ram* for lack of a better term. You are simply letting cooler air into the engine bay and letting the filter suck it up...but most of it will follow the path of least resistence, and bypass the filter right into the rest of the engine bay.
Suggestions? Completely segregate the filter pod in a box(you pick the material) and have an intake hose pull the air into the box...change this to a ram air unit by placing a funnel-like contraption in the front of the car to collect the air at higher speed. The best you could hope to do is alleviate the vacuum in the intake tract.
g'day
#25
Don't think anyone heard me, i'm looking to improve the pipe that is currently residing in my engine bay (a stupid lil Weapon-Rice) I'm going to switch out the entire intake, for a setup like the one up top, currently my intake resides behind the batter, with a weapon-r setup, basically two very small somewhat bent pipes. Where can I purchase the setup up top? (not the modified position of the battery, ill do that myself). Just the piping...thats all i need...and the rubber whatever thingys, lol.
#28
Moderator
Thread Starter
I got it from Autozone. It's for a 92-95 civic short ram intake. I cut it in half, just after the bend to fit the MAF in between. $39.99
#29
J@WS 01 or anyonelse at team sr - I would like to know more about your set up. What would I need to do that on my 96 Elantra 1.8L 5spd. I've seen systems for the auto trans. I'm dying for some idea to use on mine. How are you mounting the battery? Does your system sit by the fog light holes? Sorry for the long post, but… I WANT IT!!!!
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 4,828
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To get the J@WS01 CAI, wink
You need to make sure there is no Evap Canister in the fenderwell for the 96 Elantras. Since the 97 tibs (A-SPecs) had them there and tibs are based on elantras, I would find that out first before preceeding smile.gif
You need to make sure there is no Evap Canister in the fenderwell for the 96 Elantras. Since the 97 tibs (A-SPecs) had them there and tibs are based on elantras, I would find that out first before preceeding smile.gif