you have a limited slip for free? haha.gif don't think so. maybe you have one of those phantom SLIP LSD things.. but i doubt a real one..

engine doesn't need to be beefed for just a small nitrous setup, just tune it to work with the nitrous.

you would get the 1.8L cam cuz there was obviously a reason i recommended it, cuz its better than the 2.0L cam.

why would you get a race crank? completely pointless, and where are you going to get that from..

i recommended getting a underdrive (crank pulley) already.

not even CLOSE to 13s without my setup listed, AWESOME driving, and about a 100shot of nitrous, and a lot of weight reduction.

and do you have manual or AUTO. i asked that already.

 

It's the ZEX Wet kit, i've got mine configured for a 50 shot. That would put me into maybe 14's with my other mods. It's a good cheap way to boost your car though. It's a fire and forget mod. That's the way I like them. You can use it like redbul when you need a boost.

 

Soundes like your biggestt restriction now is your IM mang, time to bore that fuker out.

 

i mean the race crank pulley my bad.. should i get the bulldog cam and cam gear on ebay?

 

Ok, so for the amount of gain from the underdrive pulleys it doesnt compensate for wearing out your main seals on the crank. No offence, my friend had SSACRAP on his honda and it cracked from the heat. Do yourself a favor and get a "good" 4-2-1 header. Dont go with a rediculously big piping either 2"1/2 is plenty big for NA applications. Dont put time and money into getting cams other than the 1.8 unless your planning to push big power (ie 500+) or unless your running allot of boost.

Honestly if you want to put down good numbers go with a turbo. You dont have to have a huge one. But remember with a turbo unless its tuned correctly your car will be the most unreliable thing around. Dont go with anything smaller than an RBH6 thats an IHI turbo. They are for the most part cheap and if you wanted you can find them on most small import disel trucks namely isuzus. If you ran something like that. I wouldnt bother with the motor. Building it up. Just dont crank up the boost leave it at 7psi and have fun. Build yourself a motor for big boost while your playing with the one you got. Unless you have bookoo miles on it then get a motor for it and build.

Your best bet for a budget big boost motor is the 2liter crank and 1.8l rods it will drop your compression down around 8.1:1 or so. Give or take. Low compression good 10.3:1 on high boost = bang and a b**** to tune.

On the other side you could run the NA route. Get some high comp pistons which you could more than likely get off of sharkracing or what not for about 400$

Now heres the biggest catch. Either route you pick NA/Turbo you have to run premium gas in the car. There are no ands ifs or buts. Like everyone else told you. Your going to need to get some plugs a atleast 2 steps colder than what you run normally. That keeps them from melting and the premium gas keeps the motor from detonating.

Driveline. This is just as important as the rest of the things mentioned in the above article. Dont wast your time having an LSD installed in your tranny, especially if it was free. (more than likely more problem than it is good. If the LSD is bad then you have to go through the whole process of removing it and reinstalling the old one and if its one of those phantom slip lsds run away they dont work and are junk) A quick easy fix would be get some traction bars installed. Or if your handy enough with a welder do it yourself. This will keep your car from hopping. Get yourself a good clutch ACT or Clutchmasters. Your pick, they are both good brands from my personal experiance.

If your car is automatic CONVERT!

Thats all I have to say on this topic.

 

Jim, you are a welcome member here, but you really need to learn what you are talking about before you open your yap.

In your above statement, and this is the only section I'm going to touch from your ramble above my post, you stated some just plain wrong things.

1. Underdrive pullies will not wear out your main seals, or any damage to the crank. We've got SEVERAL members here with Unorthodox Racing or Jspeed pullies on their cars for well over 100,000 miles of HARD RD Lovin, with no leaks, harmonics problems, or wear issues.

2. SSAutochrome headers are not made by them, they are a copy of the OBX headers. They WILL work just fine, but be buzzy, a bit loud, and their customer service isn't the best in the world. Lots of members on this site have the Tiburon headers from them, with no issues other than the loudness.

3. Cams are a GREAT idea for this engine, even for N/A, as I will be proving next weekend. Our OEM head is pretty damned restrictive, and the only thing you can really do to it without removing it for P&P, is to replace the cams. Cams are a mod that keeps on giving as you do more to your car.


I'm CLOSING THIS THREAD, RYTIBBY, you want it opened back up, PM me after you go do a PROPER introduction in the intro area.