Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Help, Wires Broke Stuck

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Old 04-25-2006, 01:39 AM
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no you should not drive without an oil cap, replace the beta 2 valve cover with the beta 1 valve cover (and beta 1 oil cap) until you find a cheap oil cap for the beta 2 valve cover (all over eBay, and screw type will do).
Old 04-25-2006, 05:11 AM
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QUOTE (zoned019 @ Apr 25 2006, 09:08 AM)
Also, don't let your friend re-gap the plugs. They come pre-gapped to OEM specs, and they should stay that way.


not all spark plugs are pregapped. For NGK you need 2 last numbers 11 (1.1 mm).


QUOTE (Patreezy @ Apr 25 2006, 09:18 AM)
On the COIL PACKS (the other side of where the wires go) it goes 1-4-3-2.


QUOTE (zoned019 @ Apr 25 2006, 09:45 AM)
AKA firing order, as stated it is 1-4-3-2.


No, firing order is like Mad-Machine said - 1-3-4-2, check WebTech cool.gif
Old 04-25-2006, 09:32 AM
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QUOTE (HyundaiKitCoupe @ Apr 25 2006, 01:21 AM)
my friend officially dislikes imports hahaha. why?! we'd thought we had enough when the old valve cover cap didn't fit on the beta 2 valve cover cap. you cannot drive without a cap correct?


Dude, like I told you via PM, I SENT YOU A BETA 2 OIL CAP IN THE SAME BOX!!! Hope you didn't throw it away.

QUOTE
made sure no debris was anywhere and threw the new beta 2 valve cover on with some copper gasket sealant.


Uhm, where did you put this sealant, and why?

QUOTE (Alex01tib @ Apr 25 2006, 01:23 AM)
Naw redz me and swifts PRD wires didnt come with nuthing but a sticker and the wires.. Straight from PRD too...


Wow, I got mine in the GB and it came with them. You guys should contact PRD.
Old 04-25-2006, 10:11 AM
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QUOTE (HyundaiKitCoupe @ Apr 25 2006, 03:21 AM)
you cannot drive without a cap correct?


If you REALLY need to.. aluminum foil will work as both an oil cap and a drain plug provided you get it dense enough. Trust me, I know..

QUOTE (HyundaiKitCoupe @ Apr 25 2006, 03:21 AM)
threw the new beta 2 valve cover on with some copper gasket sealant.


That is my question too. The Stock valve cover comes with a rubber "o" ring type seal... reusable again and again provided you do not rip it or let it dry out and crack.
Old 04-25-2006, 10:17 AM
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His new valve cover had a brand new gasket in the box. I know, I shipped it.
Old 04-25-2006, 05:03 PM
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yep Jerz is right again. i checked in the box and the cover cap was right there! must have missed it from all the excitement. a noob can be excited no? haha. thanks for the info though, i'll know for the future.

"well, how nice of you to join us for supper... clarice"
The gasket is a copper mix seal which will outlast very high temperatures and won't let anything by it. as you all probably know, i had a gasket leak which spewed oil out of the seal like a toddler refusing to eat soup!

my friends ass. he thinks this forum stuff is magic, how we get such quick response.

anything else i should know before i connect these expensive wires into the spark plugs? how much should i torque the plugs in or does it even matter? dielectric grease, does it go on the metal conducter of the plug or the inside of the boot on the plug wire?

what about anti-seize grease on the plug screws ?
Old 04-25-2006, 09:07 PM
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I still don't know why you used that gasket sealer, that's a bad choice in my opinion. Just oil up the OEM gasket a bit, tighten it down to specs, no leaks.

TO answer your other questions...

1. Put some Dielectric Grease on the inside of the metal clip, AND I like to put a bit on the spark plug connection, just to be sure it's coated totally.

2. Yes, some anti Seize on the plug threads would be great. Just don't over do any of it.

3. Don't overtighten shit. Be careful bro.
Old 04-26-2006, 01:14 AM
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here you go wink1.gif

TORQUE SPECIFICATION
Spark plug 20-30 Nm ( 204-306 kg•cm, 15-21 lb•ft )


do not over tight it cause head is aluminium.
Old 04-26-2006, 04:01 PM
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Done.

There is no noticeable difference although the car feels a tid bit more aggressive. That you for all of your input and information. Now I know what at least the DOHC of the engine looks like along with how the oil is run about. we vaccumed some debris out, cleanded it some.

we put a quart of oil inside, idled it for about 5 mins. the car was raggedy, white smoke came out of the muffler for a minute and then the storm finally went away and everything was back to normal. happy ending? we'll see on the street.

in the meantime, i've got some cleaning and polishing up to get to in the corners where all the gunked up oil went. i also found traces of sludge buildup in small pockets in the engine but i take it that's normal buildup and very small, it can probably be flushed with some special motor oil.

LESSON to everyone: i spread some dielectric grease on the inside of all of the spark wire boots both front and back. then i buttered up the spark plugs with anti-seize. all fit and work perfectly now. the lesson is always do this. difficulty level is easy if you know what you're doing. always use a spark boot tool costs $4.75 at advance auto to pull out plugs. always lube up your stuff.
Old 04-26-2006, 04:06 PM
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I don't have that little timing chain guard like you do...

02.gif

Glad to see everything worked out...



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