good BIM/Polish cost?
#12
I would say both but it's going to depend on what kind of thickness you have in the green section for the outer walls. The red section should be perfectly fine to bore out a little but I don't know about the green section. I haven't seen up the inside of my IM so I am not sure of the thickness. My question is what the hell are you going to use to bore out the green section??? you've got a bend in there that I can't think of what you could use to get up in there and through that bend. bryfx, I think you're disagreeing with the wrong person. If what El Tiburon is saying came from Random, I would just make sure you know EXACTLY what you're talking about or you better be prepared to be exploded by Random's telekinetic Hyundai super brain. That's all I gotta say suicide however I don't know really either way which is better and as I am turboing my car I am just going to make my IM as smooth as possible. I don't gotta worry about air velocity through natural vaccuum and the simplest theory (smoother better) can sometimes be the easier ones to stand by.
#14
I am in the process , right now.. of doing this.
I am still not 100percent sure of which you remove first, the fuel rail from the injectors then remove the injectors, or does the whole thing unplug as one then unplug the injectors from the rail?
So anyways, I have a friend with a machine shop who is going to open up the TB side of the intake (red part above)
I thought about opening up the engine intale side too.with the tools it looks easy to open, and the aluminum looks pretty thick too. Has anyone done this?
Did you also then open up the intake ports on the engine?
I am just doing the top for now. I am also having the outside polished after. Then I'm gonna lazer etch my tag on the top. Trust it will look dope when I'm done.
Ps does anyone have an aftermarket fuel rail?
I am still not 100percent sure of which you remove first, the fuel rail from the injectors then remove the injectors, or does the whole thing unplug as one then unplug the injectors from the rail?
So anyways, I have a friend with a machine shop who is going to open up the TB side of the intake (red part above)
I thought about opening up the engine intale side too.with the tools it looks easy to open, and the aluminum looks pretty thick too. Has anyone done this?
Did you also then open up the intake ports on the engine?
I am just doing the top for now. I am also having the outside polished after. Then I'm gonna lazer etch my tag on the top. Trust it will look dope when I'm done.
Ps does anyone have an aftermarket fuel rail?
#15
QUOTE
you better be prepared to be exploded by Random's telekinetic Hyundai super brain.
Oh my god that **** was ssssoooooo funny. I mean i'm sitting by myself in my room laughing at something I read. Damn that's great to know someone can capture the essense of Random from Online. I'm still laughing about it man. Oh but he says if you're going turbo it's good to do the job. **** he's actually boring his out waaay more than 58 but I might be devulging too much about Random so I'll shut up. But it is pretty interesting to hear both sides back and forth (when the WHOLE battle is civil and highly educated). Still laughing...
#17
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
If AEM makes one, it's the "universal" one, not one that is Hyundai specific. OBX does indeed make a Hyundai specific fuel rail.
El Tiburon-
The quote in question is specifically regarding the port/polish of intake runners and port openings, not the entire IM itself.
BryFX knows his stuff. He was tuning cars while I was driving around bone stock happy with new headlight bulbs.
There is indeed more to it than just "smooth = better" or "rough = better". Flow Bench testing is also not the holy grail. A head that flow bench tests best is usually not the head that makes the most power. Read Modern Engine tuning by A. Graham Bell for more info on the falicies of flow bench testing, polishing everything and HP.
The link you posted isn't really usefull unless you plan on somehow using supersonic intake speeds, and some LFC device. as they state
JerseyTiburon-
the TB is aluminum. As is the intake manifold. If you are refering to just polishing the outside of the TB...go for it. For a case of beer it's well worth it. If you are refering to polishing the intake manifold...please clarify. If you are refering to polishing the inside of the Bored TB...don't bother. The bore job should leave a smooth enough surface, and there's no real point to polishing the bore of the TB...especially once you look inside of the intake manifold.
[ March 25, 2003, 01:46 AM: Message edited by: Random ]
El Tiburon-
The quote in question is specifically regarding the port/polish of intake runners and port openings, not the entire IM itself.
BryFX knows his stuff. He was tuning cars while I was driving around bone stock happy with new headlight bulbs.
There is indeed more to it than just "smooth = better" or "rough = better". Flow Bench testing is also not the holy grail. A head that flow bench tests best is usually not the head that makes the most power. Read Modern Engine tuning by A. Graham Bell for more info on the falicies of flow bench testing, polishing everything and HP.
The link you posted isn't really usefull unless you plan on somehow using supersonic intake speeds, and some LFC device. as they state
QUOTE
Boundary layer stability is a large topic on its own. We will limit the following considerations to a few practical aspects of LFC
andQUOTE
the normal suction must be as uniform as possible, to avoid further distortions in the flow structure.
Unless you plan on using some kind of perforated intake manifold for LFC...that page/link doesn't really apply. Sorry. If you want to get all geeky on air flow, let's start a seperate topic.JerseyTiburon-
the TB is aluminum. As is the intake manifold. If you are refering to just polishing the outside of the TB...go for it. For a case of beer it's well worth it. If you are refering to polishing the intake manifold...please clarify. If you are refering to polishing the inside of the Bored TB...don't bother. The bore job should leave a smooth enough surface, and there's no real point to polishing the bore of the TB...especially once you look inside of the intake manifold.
[ March 25, 2003, 01:46 AM: Message edited by: Random ]
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
Likes: 0
From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
No problem Tony.
Just remember me when your giving out ratings.
wink lol
Anyways, I'm getting the OBX one so I can replace my stock Fuel Rail when I'm doing my IM. It's perty cheap and I'll allready have the IM off.
Just remember me when your giving out ratings.
wink lol
Anyways, I'm getting the OBX one so I can replace my stock Fuel Rail when I'm doing my IM. It's perty cheap and I'll allready have the IM off.
#20
Hey Redsman,
I dont really ust that ratings feature. I think I have used it twice, way back in time. Do the ratings have any use? What does it mean?
I am doing my IM like right now, just I am still have not taken off the rail and injectors, ?
pull rail off with injectors still attached, then twist out of the rail?
The injectors just slide in to the IM yeah?
well, I am going to find out soon.
Still what is the advantage to having an aftermarket rail?
Just looks cool? dunno
meh
I dont really ust that ratings feature. I think I have used it twice, way back in time. Do the ratings have any use? What does it mean?
I am doing my IM like right now, just I am still have not taken off the rail and injectors, ?
pull rail off with injectors still attached, then twist out of the rail?
The injectors just slide in to the IM yeah?
well, I am going to find out soon.
Still what is the advantage to having an aftermarket rail?
Just looks cool? dunno
meh