Engine, Intake, Exhaust Modifications to your Normally Aspirated Hyundai engine. Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat back Exhaust...etc.

Evap Canister Removal?

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Old 10-21-2008 | 11:14 PM
  #11  
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Well, here's a DIY I made removing it from my old '96 Elantra:

http://www.hyundaiperformance.com/forums/n...bs-96-97-a.html

BTW, I never got a CEL the entire time I owned the car.
Old 10-22-2008 | 06:35 AM
  #12  
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^^^
BTW, that's the exact DIY we followed for the Green RD1 that Role Reversal and I did it on. Almost looks like the pictures I took of it too.

LOL

QUOTE (likeyoumeanit @ Oct 21 2008, 03:28 PM)
Yes if its a rev a it isn't apparent, but otherwise, in Pa, mechanics are supposed to inspect the tail pipe for rust and holes the whole way back, so the chances of it being seen aren't entirely bad. Will he get failed if he correctly bypasses and removes it? maybe, maybe not. I gave my advise based on the fact that I undergo the same emissions requirements as he does and not wanting him to have to shell out a lot of money if the mechanic notices. He doesn't have to take and people don't have to go out of their way in an attempt to debase it.


They are supposed to look at the entire exhaust system in every state that does inspections of any sort, that's why they look for your cats, make sure there isn't any strange wiring going to your o2 sensors, and look under the car to take a gander at the exhaust.

Chances of seeing the evap cannister are ZERO, absolutely ZERO, unless your wheel well liner is removed. Chances of them knowing where it is in a particular car, unless they own it or have worked on one, very close to ZERO. Hell, if you did it with all brass fittings and painted them black, they could look right at the jumble and just move on, because they aren't looking for it.

There is no check box on a form for inspections that says "Evap Cannister", and unless they have a manual stating where that cannister is for every model of every car ever made, which there isn't, then you are okay. Think about it. This is a Hyundai, and just in our model years alone, the cannister is in 2 different positions. Multiply that by all different makes and models...

See where we are going here?

I already answered that if he takes his time, does it right, he will get no codes. If you get no codes, and the OBDII inspection is what is done, you will pass. If you have no codes, and they do a tailpipe sniffer test (usually only done on non OBD cars), he will pass. I undergo all of the same emissions tests here every 2 years, my car passes, even with my highly NON OEM EXHAUST and ONE CAT. My old RD1 passed, WITH THIS SAME MODIFICATION DONE.

They walk up, ask you to start the car, and plug in the OBDII (sometimes they want you to just turn it to run, then start it after connected). They use a scanner to scan the barcode/vin on the door sill. They run their test. They shut the car off. They pop the hood and look at the exhaust, and 1/10 times they look under the car. They then take off your fuel cap and test it with a vaccum to see if it leaks. You pay your money, they give you your papers, and you leave.

I have no idea what your last sentence means, but his question is answered.
Old 10-22-2008 | 10:54 AM
  #13  
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Didn't mean to start a fight, but it is on a 2000 Elantra. The only reasons I want to reome it are:

1. The strap holding it in is completely rusted thru.

2. To save some weight.

I might try and remove it and let you know what happens.

Thanks for the help.
Old 10-22-2008 | 12:52 PM
  #14  
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the power vs weight is strong on any 4 cylinder car, if you're doing it to save weight, might as well leave your spare tire and wood rack out, or leave your college books at home, or tell your friends to take a hike everytime they ride. point is, taking out the canister will have no effect on speed and even if contrary, it's a bit silly to save two pounds. i also think taking that risk right before emissions is sort of ironic.

it seems like you want to pursue this. all i can say now is good luck, have fun, and make sure you do some research. you know my stance. that's pretty much all from me on this. i'm only interested to see the invitation others are giving, and another member to try this. the more when someone is willing to go ahead with it! it will be more fun if your car is an auto wink1.gif
Old 10-22-2008 | 01:47 PM
  #15  
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Why would it differ if it is auto/manual?

I already removed around 50 pounds. Why not make it 52
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:05 PM
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i'll tell you what. according to these guys telling you to go for it--let's find out wink1.gif hehehe.
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:25 PM
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HKC you are the only person i know of that had a problem with the removal. Why you bash the thought when anyone asks i dont know. Don't listen to hkc's negativity. Just follow the diy and you will be fine.
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:40 PM
  #18  
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negativity? bash? where? i said let's find out.
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:41 PM
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I think HKC damaged his purge valve or the wiring when he did his. I've ever heard of maybe 5 folks having problems with this out of hundreds, and almost all of them hooked stuff up wrong or broke something.
Old 10-22-2008 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
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^entirely right, it could have been the case too. i just replaced it to a brand new factory sealed one just to be certain. these things do get clogged.

but i did end up taking zoned019's advice and putting it back to stock. i'm just willing to find out once and for all so please give us updates. that's primarily why i'm posting in here is to really find out.





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