Engine Rebuild... With Better Components?
01-27-2009, 01:06 AM
#1
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Hey guys, I need your input on this:
My RD1 has 220,000 km on the clock, and it started eating a little more oil, maybe giving a hint that a rebuild might come in the near future.
I think of adding a Supercharger in the future (NGM Enforcer, once I get some input from these who already got it...)
What are the components that I should replace to revive the engine? It drives great btw, better than new, other than the oil consumption issue, which is also not very bad ?
I guess rings, and maybe balancing stuff while at it? Can I rely on the OEM ones for boosting (do they play a role at all?)
I want to boost on stock compression, hoping for a GOOD tune. Should I keep the stock pistons, or get aftermarket stock compression ones?
What is the weakest link that might fail under boost (at levels of 300hp on stock compression)? are these the pistons?
Should I replace studs or something? different gasket?
To sum it up, what components should I use in an engine rebuild, keeping stock compression, with the intension to boost one day.
Thanks ,Sasha.
My RD1 has 220,000 km on the clock, and it started eating a little more oil, maybe giving a hint that a rebuild might come in the near future.
I think of adding a Supercharger in the future (NGM Enforcer, once I get some input from these who already got it...)
What are the components that I should replace to revive the engine? It drives great btw, better than new, other than the oil consumption issue, which is also not very bad ?
I guess rings, and maybe balancing stuff while at it? Can I rely on the OEM ones for boosting (do they play a role at all?)
I want to boost on stock compression, hoping for a GOOD tune. Should I keep the stock pistons, or get aftermarket stock compression ones?
What is the weakest link that might fail under boost (at levels of 300hp on stock compression)? are these the pistons?
Should I replace studs or something? different gasket?
To sum it up, what components should I use in an engine rebuild, keeping stock compression, with the intension to boost one day.
Thanks ,Sasha.
01-27-2009, 09:12 PM
#2
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Sasha,
the weak link are the pistons, they'll melt, crack before anything else happens..
if you're building it with mid boost in mind then get aftermarket forged pistons with a comp. ratio of about 10:1
if you want to go with big boost shoot for 8.5:1 - 9:1
connecting can hold a good amount of beating, might be a wise choice to have them inspected,shootpeened and polish the beams
ARP rod bolt would be a nice touch while you're in there
get yourself a set of head studs (main studs are nice but not required unless you have big plans)
OEM head gasket works fine
OEM or good aftermarket bearings are okay, use brand name parts
that should cover the parts
the hard part most of the time is getting GOOD machine work and engine building work
rotating assembly must be balanced (damper pulley,flywheel,crank, rods,pistons)
block should be properly rebored,honed,cleaned,retreaded,decked (to get a good seal for the head gasket)
head should be properly rebuilt also and refaced (again for the head gasket)
the weak link are the pistons, they'll melt, crack before anything else happens..
if you're building it with mid boost in mind then get aftermarket forged pistons with a comp. ratio of about 10:1
if you want to go with big boost shoot for 8.5:1 - 9:1
connecting can hold a good amount of beating, might be a wise choice to have them inspected,shootpeened and polish the beams
ARP rod bolt would be a nice touch while you're in there
get yourself a set of head studs (main studs are nice but not required unless you have big plans)
OEM head gasket works fine
OEM or good aftermarket bearings are okay, use brand name parts
that should cover the parts
the hard part most of the time is getting GOOD machine work and engine building work
rotating assembly must be balanced (damper pulley,flywheel,crank, rods,pistons)
block should be properly rebored,honed,cleaned,retreaded,decked (to get a good seal for the head gasket)
head should be properly rebuilt also and refaced (again for the head gasket)
01-27-2009, 09:54 PM
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Thank you for the info!!
what brand of pistons you'd reccomand from your personal experience?
Where to buy the parts you've mentioned?
thanks once again!
what brand of pistons you'd reccomand from your personal experience?
Where to buy the parts you've mentioned?
thanks once again!
01-27-2009, 10:30 PM
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i like to use either wiseco,JE, Cp..
they all make good psitons
but i don't know wich are easier for you to get...
they all make good psitons
but i don't know wich are easier for you to get...
05-03-2009, 04:47 PM
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"block should be properly rebored,honed,cleaned,retreaded,decked" , am new to the rebuilding process what exactly is rebored, honed, retreaded, and decked? I jst want a brief explanation on these terms.
05-03-2009, 05:46 PM
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Boring is making it larger, honing is making the walls smooth basically for seating of rings. Decking is referring to the mating surface of the head and block, making sure they are smooth for proper head gasket sealing.
05-03-2009, 09:59 PM
#7
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Slow your roll there everybody.
Losing oil might be as simple as a stuck PCV valve, or maybe leaking valve stem seals. There could be another 200,000 miles in that engine's rings.
gsasha1: you should get a compression test done to determine where the oil is going. It might be helpful to follow that with a leakdown test. Google will tell you all you need to know about those in 10 minutes, which is about as long as the compression test will take to actually perform.
Losing oil might be as simple as a stuck PCV valve, or maybe leaking valve stem seals. There could be another 200,000 miles in that engine's rings.
gsasha1: you should get a compression test done to determine where the oil is going. It might be helpful to follow that with a leakdown test. Google will tell you all you need to know about those in 10 minutes, which is about as long as the compression test will take to actually perform.