paperstsoapco

see now THAT is a problem, check on ur TPS.

hamhead

Shifting is not something you want to slam from gear to gear, even when your racing. I think 2F2F is responsible for all this slamming gears in manuals. A smooth shift is just as important as a fast one.

Shifting too fast for the transmission, like you described, increases wear exponentially... especially on synchros and the like. If you want to have the car allign everything in the tranny better, as said, get a lightened flywheel. That will cause the RPMs to drop a little faster... and while you have it apart you can see if there are any problems in the tranny that could be causing the problem, which I don't think there are.

REDZMAN

STOCK01TIB, please, don't quote the person above you. It's a big waste of space and against the rules.

Use the ADD REPLY BUTTON at the bottom of the page.

Casper

Your car sounds normal mang. The thing is, like mad said, the motor has a lot of heavy rotational mass. It takes longer to change from a constant (think inertia) an object in motion stays in motion.... and heavyier object will resist the change for a longer period of time (a car rolling down a hill is harder to slow down than a bicycle).

You can, however reduce this feeling by slightly lifting the gas petal before pushing the clutch in. Over time, it will feel like it shifts more like what you are used to.

The only way to totally remove the hesitation is to start lighting the rotating mass in the engine (flywheel, lighter/balanced internals, lighter crank pulley, etc).

Mad-Machine

Ok, I did some testing on my car. If I bring the Revs up to 5 grand and hold them.. and then release the throttle pedal, the car will fall to 2 grand on the tach over a five second period. It will hold at 2 grand for two seconds and then fall to idle.

This is normal. Our cars are designed to do this to cut down on emissions. Running a high RPM engine and then shutting the throttle plate will make the engine suck oil from the crankcase into the engine, raising NoX and other byproducts of incomplete combustion. It is a designed in feature.

What I am thinking is happening, you need to look at how you shift. A smooth shift is not.. Clutch in, shift gears, clutch out, and then throttle. It is similar, but you have to feed throttle into the engine as your let the clutch back out.

As it is, the greatest gap you are going to find in swapping gears is a 1500 rpm drop from first to second gear. If you take a second to shift, it should have fallen that far. Like said above, slamming gears is NOT good for your transmission. A lot of people do it though. A lot of people here do it. All you need to do is look at all the posts about people complaining about dead manual transmissions and clutches. You do not need to race everywhere you go, that does nothing more than put excessive wear and tear on your car and give you a reputation with the police as somebody to watch

stocktib01

Well I was just checking to see if this was normal/common in an engine. Seeing as how it is, I would like to add that I try to not to "slam" my shifting. I go for a steady and smooth transition. I realize the effect that the wear from hard shifts has on transmissions.

That being said, I appreciate all of your efforts to explain this to me. I think I might go about balancing my engine in the future, it seems worthwhile. By the way Redz, I was quoting the person I was addressing my post to, as just adding a midpage reply to no one in particular might have been confusing.

05GLI

Why are you revving it to 5000 rpm and granny shifting it? rolleyes.gif laugh.gif


Yeah, but then you will notice your car isn't very highway friendly anymore.
Not to be mean, but if you are concerned about this "problem" so much that you would spend money to fix it (especillay all the money it would cost to go about doing the things listed above), then I think you should look into getting a different car.

Mad-Machine

Having driven and owned a few higher performance cars in the past. I will go out on a limb and say you are wrong. Modern cars are intentionally rotationally heavy. They do this so anybody can climb in and if they can work the clutch and shifter at the same time, drive them. As I have mentioned before, I recently had to move my Lancia. The 134 series engine in my Lancia is VERY light rotationally. It revs if you look at the gas pedal too hard. I stalled the poor car half a dozen times just trying to get it moving. Once you get going though, and you are used to the lightweight engine's characteristics, they are no more difficult to drive than any other car.

Mad_john

i would check your ICS motor.

hamhead

Yeah, since Hyundai made economy motors.... they leaned more towards drivability than performance. Hyundai wanted an easy to drive, fast enough car... not a hard to drive, slightly faster car.