So all in all boost is fun and great for making hp, but i honestly wonder if i had gone a different route what could of been.



1mm oversize ferra valves( with the necessary components required by ferra valves)

open up the beta 2 non cvvt head as much as possible

decrease the quench clearance as much as possible

14:1 compression bored 83mm block

And throw in the tallest cams you can with that compression (custom ground)

lighten and balance everything you can internal wise.

An aftermarket rod might be a good idea

raise rev limit to 8k

Custom intake manifold (smaller plenum i believe with shorter runners)

Toga high volume oil pump

a nice megan 4 to 1 header

run e85

msd ignition (msd dis 62112) I think this would help for high compression

i dont know about the plugs what heat range

Aem fic (for fuel tuning maybe overkill but need something to tune e85)

big enough injectors and fuel components to run e85

quafe lsd

Custom fuel rail for more volume

big bore throttle body

a nice big battery so you have enough juice to make it down the 1/4 with out an alternator

a/c delete

ps delete

light weight crank pulley made to run only the water pump

and some nice drag radials

Tuck all the wiring make it look clean as possible

And get the best possible tune ever





Even if you kept the alternator, can you imagine driving this car around town would be goofy as heck. I actually did a little research on higher compression, and i found out the e85 would run about the same temperature at normal operation as a gasoline powered tib, but at wide open throttle when its richest is when e85 will run cooler temps.



This car at 14:1 compression alone would be so different. i know when i bumped compression 1 point going to 11:1 the engine sounded higher pitched.



i found a calculator to figure out what my compression ratio is at 11:1 at 5psi at 874ft of elevation (i live in ohio) This is what it came up with.



"Boost and Altitude Correction to Compression



You are running 5 PSI of boost at an altitude of 879 feet. Your motor's static compression is 11 :1. At this boost level and altitude your effective compression ratio is 14.57 :1, and without altitude correction your compression ratio would be 14.74 :1."



So i plugged in some more numbers



14:1 compression at 5psi boost 874ft elevation



"Boost and Altitude Correction to Compression



You are running 5 PSI of boost at an altitude of 879 feet. Your motor's static compression is 14 :1. At this boost level and altitude your effective compression ratio is 18.59 :1, and without altitude correction your compression ratio would be 18.76 :1."



lol this motor would detonate so fast^^ Unless the e85 and msd could compensate enough but the amount of degree of timing you would have to retard would really cut down on power output.



However with more research i found that compression ratio isnt the same as effective ratio, all in all boost makes more power(duh)

So a compression ratio of 11:1 wouldn't have as much power as a 9:1 compression motor pushing 5 psi. But the effective ratio of 9:1 at 5 psi is 11.89:1 at 874ft elevation.



Kinda interesting, any ideas to add the the 14:1 compression n/a tib?

Maybe even go to c16 race gas?

What would it take to covert to alcohol?



So with a little more research i found that the highest compression ratio for e85 is roughly around 12.5:1



The next step up alcohol an alcohol can run at 15.5:1 compression so scratch out the 14:1 and go with 15:1 compression pistons.



I did a lot of research on alcohol and it has a ton of benefits, i will list briefly



(brb gotta get a drink of water)



1.It's almost impossible to overheat an alcohol engine.

2. The average price of alcohol is under $2 per gallon

3. Alcohol does not add much peak horsepower, but it adds a lot of torque.



Down side to alcohol



1. Alcohol can be very corrosive - It is mandatory that all your fittings and fuel system parts are of good condition and all parts are anodized or coated to protect against corrosion.



2. Alcohol myths - You must drain your fuel system and lubricate all components after every race. This is just a myth. Always add lube to your alcohol (most alcohol comes with lube already added).



3. Starting a cold engine in cold weather



4. tuning.



Serious thought would need to go into the fuel system and a full stand alone tuning system would more than likely be required.



Might not last to long on the road with out getting a ticket but an open header would be really cool with this setup.





ANY OTHER IDEAS COME on dream it up!. but research what you post, im not saying everything i posted it 100% accurate, but the research behind my idea is what really got me excited.

 

It is actually pretty easy to run E85. Just get a good fuel pump rated for E85 with higher output any rubber fuel lines should be replaced with flexible plastic and the injectors should be able to handle e85 so big DEKA brand injectors hold up well. then it is making sure you replace all the black o rings in the fuel system with the red viton type. And of course a good tune designed for using e85 and you should be good.

If you aren't running e85 for your turbo the benefits are even better for turbo cars. Check out the Saab tuners and the quickest turbo saabs all run e85 using the setup I just described. E85 is like street legal racing fuel!

 

Sounds very good, Yet, I do believe that you more than likely wouldnt even make 200Whp... Which for the cost of all that, you could easily just build a crazy turbo motor!





1mm oversize ferra valves( with the necessary components required by ferra valves)

open up the beta 2 non cvvt head as much as possible

Pauter Rods

Cp Pistons (8.5:1)

Block Girdle (To add motor strength)

And throw in the tallest cams you can with that compression (custom ground)

lighten and balance everything you can internal wise (Knife Edge Crank, Fidanza flywheel)

Toga high volume oil pump

run e85

msd ignition (msd dis 62112) I think this would help for high compression

Aem fic (for fuel tuning maybe overkill but need something to tune e85)

big enough injectors and fuel components to run e85

quafe lsd

Custom fuel rail for more volume

big bore throttle body

a nice big battery so you have enough juice to make it down the 1/4 with out an alternator

a/c delete

ps delete

and some nice drag radials

Tuck all the wiring make it look clean as possible

And get the best possible tune ever



Then the Turbo Setup

Gt35, maybe Gt40 if you just plan on drag racing

Then a huge front mount(29x12x4)

3" ICP

Tail Wastgate 38MM

Tail BOV 50MM

Custom built Ramhorn Mani

Then an open DP!!



Then for the extra HP and Saftey

Run a Meth Kit (Snow performance 5Gallon)



Funny thing is you probably still have money left over,



so now your going back to the Dyno and going to get two tunes, One for DD and one for Friday Nite Drags!



Also not only that but your running low 12's possible 11's with a 500whp Tiburon and people looking at you like WTF is that!!! Did that thing just run a 11????

 

Your forgetting something important, the tranny...

 

Honda shops that have cash flows do it all the time. Most N/A I've seen is 250whp with a 7k investment in motor work alone.



In my opinion, if you got nothing else to spend your money on go for it but if its hp you want, it's the wrong way to get it.

 

In any good honda setup you will spend a few K only in the head!

 

lol all that work and money invested in your NA vehicle



then ill pass you in my old automatic wagon with a 80 shot

 

This is why i say a simple Turbo motor, then a good turbo setup will make tons more power than a fully built to the hilt, about to explode N/A!

 

That is true, but some people just like NA engines!

 

NA is where the world finds truth in the meaning of no replacement for displacement. That said bore that block as much as it can take then put in oversized pistons. 0And agreed most of the money will go in the cylinder head and fuel system.

Turbo would be easier and by the time you approached the upper HP of the NA engine you are probably looking at an engine even less reliable then a stock engine with a high boost turbo. I would wager that a beta block with a beta 2 head noncvvt style would safely boost over 200hp if you had the fuel system, intercooler, and tune done correctly. According to what I have read and seen for my self.

The beta engine had forged steel rods, a decently strong crank and is an iron block. The bad is the pistons themselves and the HLAs in the head. So upgrading the pistons and going to a BETA 2 head alone will allow you to push the engine past 200hp if you can tune it properly. Now opening up the BETA 2 head and upgrading the fuel system I could see 300hp easily again with the proper tune probably 350hp+ if you tune using E85 however those numbers would require a more substantial transmission setup. And since I haven't seen much aftermarket support you would be looking at getting OE everything and sending out the gears to a shop that could make them strong possibly through cryotreatment? I don't know if that would work on transmission parts or you could probably get somthing from the DSM tranny builders. If the front AWD LSD works from talon/eclipses then the internals may be similiar enough that it wouldn't take much more machining to fit them in our cases.