Bullfrog

ok so one of you 2 need to get your engine back together and let us know what the results are!

Stocker

I'll lose that race for sure. My head still has a lot of elbow grease to go into it, then off to the machine shop, then more elbow grease, then I'll need a set of 2.0L rods for the pistons (the only 2.0L rods I have now are in my daily driver) and then I'll finally be able to get the swap done. That's between taking care of a wife, 3 kids, 2 dogs, 2 cars, house, job, church, etc. . . months, at least. 02.gif

iheartmyrd

i got a set of 2.0 rods in a 2.0 block im not using with pistons crank and everything
fully assembled bottem end of 2.0

pm if you need some parts cheap

Stocker

I'll try to remember you said that when the time finally comes. Thanks.

iheartmyrd

smile.gif runs great. and on 87 none the less. hail.gif
i do not intend on using 87 but did so for stockers benefit. YW

Had a small problem, the head gasket decided it wanted to leak; and for what reason idk.

and when i went to go move my car in the garage to do the head gasket my MSD DIS2 took a shit on me.
but with this loss of the msd, i will be installing an AEM FIC. ORDERING ON MONDAY lmao.gif
i also installed an obx underdrive pulley. and removed a/c


As of right now my current setup is:
compression is some where between 11.5:1 and 11:1 some day i will get and exact measurement
1.8 pistons 2.0 rods
2002 elantra head gasket (thinner)
Decked head
Singh Grooves
Ported intake manifold
Underdrive pulley
OBX header
Custom 2.25 exhaust no cat
WAI
75 shot of nitrous (dormant till Aem FIC installed msd broke)

Stocker

fing02.gif I'm glad it's working out for you . . . aside from the parts that just broke!

Please, if you will, comment on:

Quality of idle before/after the work

Engine power at part-throttle at very low engine speed (1000-1500RPM)

Fuel economy increase/decrease (might take a few weeks but I'd like to know)

iheartmyrd

Idle feels verrrry smooth, exhaust sounds deeper, seems much lighter to rev,
sensitive to throttle.
the only things i cant tell you yet is power gains, or gas mileage.


obviously hasn't been broken in yet so in about a week or two i will fully test it out.

Stocker

I just read thru this again and saw you don't intend to use 87 . . . why not? You gain exactly bubkis by going to higher octane gas without needing it.

Albuquerquefx

The thing to watch for is sharp corners. I'm not sure that I fully buy the grooved combustion chamber either, but either way, you don't want hard edges anywhere in the combustion chamber. Letters that were relief-stamped into the valve faces, casting burrs, and the "corners" where your grooves meet the angled area where the valve faces are. I find it difficult to build grooves into the quench pads of the head while avoiding sharp corners.

Sharp edges equate to more and faster heat soak in those spots, which then can result in "glow plug" behavior where the hot edge suddenly starts igniting your fuel and air mixture when you don't want it to. See also: predetonation smile.gif

Did you take the time to clay-test the tolerances between your piston face at TDC and the quench pads on the head? You mentioned milling the head and decking the block surface, along with the thinner head gasket. Purely stock, the quench clearance is something like about 0.045" if I recall correctly (at least, from my '97 2.0L block). I ended up sandwiching them down to about 0.015" including the head gasket, which is all the further I wanted to go.

My situation isn't directly comparable to yours; my pistons are forged aluminum and thus I expect them to both rock in the cylinder bores as well as expand under heat. I generally assume they'll be within 0.007" at full operating temperature and full RPM. Since you're dealing with the stock hyper-eutectic material, the expansion and rock will be significantly less. Nevertheless, it's still a good idea to know how close you're getting...

Anyway, I'm also interested in how your motor stacks up on cheap gas. I haven't found the limits of my motor just yet in terms of timing, but I've got some 40-degrees of advance dialed in under partial throttle (around 10" of vacuum) without issue. There's no way the stock setup would've dealt with that...

Stocker

Red the fun part about the grooves is they decrease tendency toward detonation, which is why our good buddy here bumped up compression a full point and ran okay on regular. Dressing down the edges is a good idea though, just on G.P.

The clearance point is a good one, and I hope I remember it when the time finally comes. Correct me if I'm wrong: If you shave the head or deck so the clearance is zero with NO head gasket, and add a gasket, you will 'probably' be fine, yes?

oh yeah: iheartmyRD, do you mind if I use your photos in my head P&P thread?