so i figured i'd drop an update because this may be notable. it wasn't a bad clutch or related parts of the tranny ect. turns out it was a battery issue. Don't ask me how but seems a low amp/bad cell in the battery caused this non shifting. not the idiot who couldn't drive it. i was going to install the new clutch kit last week but instead i figured i'd set winter ect up new battery new cables plugs/wires ect. well i changed the battery that kept dieing. i know the alternator is shot. the regulator never shuts off n the battery discharges.. any ways!!!! so i put the new battery in figure i'll start it and move it fwd to heat the engine a tad before i remove the plugs. "i've always done it this way" when i went to move it fwd i gave it a lil gas about 1800rpm because typically i had to or the sob wouldn't move. well to my surprise it starts burning tire :S so i took it for a drive because i've got a nice 1-2 mile drive way it went pretty damn well and pretty fast at about 39 in 2nd to 3rd. so i guess this issue is solved i managed to hit about 100 on the highway before returning. so i'd say its fine. now i just need to find a high output alternator. anyone know where to find one?!?!? any who. i figured i'd waste some time and post this since it seems an odd clutch issue. thanks for the help and of course thanks for reading!

 

i believe the man is right-... i don't see how you're battery has anything to do with this

sometimes when a slave and/or master cylinder starts going bad, one can have some of the symptoms of a bad clutch. so rather than testing some of the cheaper parts they tear 1/2 the car apart to replace the clutch-... when that is done they still will experience the same problems!

don't ask me how i know (x2)!

think about it, the slave and master cylinder are sealed hydraulic systems-... if you are loosing clutch fluid you have a leak somewhere-... try feeling around the top of your clutch pedal (by the adjuster) for any signs of damage/leaks-... if there is any noticale damage then you need to replace the master cylinder!

have someone pump the clutch (while car is off) while you watch the slave cylinder. if you see any difficulty in movement or if it isn't consistant or if you see it leaking-... then you'd need to replace the slave cylinder.

luckily if it is either one of those, you are able to purchase a rebuild kit for both. i believe they ar around $45 each from the dealer-... alot cheaper than a clutch, or replacing the slave and/or master cylinders.