Curtas

Hey guys,
I know Random mentioned that Alpine routed the oil return to a plug in the block that was some sort of oil dump galley. I've been trying to find it, but with little success. I'm trying to finalize whether or not I'm going to tap the pan for the drain. I already have some AN-10 hose with straight hose end fittings.

Anyway, I'm not worried about tapping the pan, I'd just rather screw it into an existing hole if possible.

Random, if you have any pics that may show a glimpse of where the line drains back, please post them. Red, how are you draining the turbo oil?

Thanks,
ac

Random

Mine drains back into the Oil pressure sensor threadded hole. Not the best place, but that is where it is now.

When I re-do my system, I plan on adding a air/oil seperator, and draining it back into the pan.

The problem of the drain into the oil pressure sensor hole, is that hole can see oil pressure over 100 psi when cold and around 75 PSI when hot and under high RPM load. Than means that the oil is not draining out of the turbo properly at High Load High RPM...when you need it to drain most. That is why I am relocating mine to the pan.

I don't have any photos of the setup as the turbo and waste gate actuator is in the way.

[ March 16, 2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Random ]

Curtas

Thanks, I'll just plan on tapping the pan, then.

AN-10 is a big-ass fitting! smile.gif I'm going to have to buy a new tap for it.

I wouldn't worry about an air/oil separator, the oil is pretty frothy, but if it drains above the oil level in the pan, the air will just get vented through the breather. It's not under pressure (the oil drain, that is) so you shouldn't have to worry too much.

I'm planning on rerouting my breather to a catch-can and filter and install a check valve to allow the catch can to drain back into the sump. That should keep me track and emmissions legal without letting oil vapors accumulate in my intercooler.

Thanks for the update.

ac

2 UNIQ

Wouldnt it be more benefical if you just tap it inti the block.Its already pre-threaded and the Jigsaw plate comes already with the Alpine kit.Im routing mine into the block.Wouldnt it be more consistent into the block than the pan?

Curtas

If you knew of a reliable spot in the block that had no oil pressure and a free drain to the sump, and you knew the thread size and pitch, so you could buy the fittings ahead of time, then yes. It would be a stronger connection to the block than the pan. However, tapping the pan up high isn't that big a deal. If you flush the pan to get rid of the shavings, seal the threads with thread locker, AND epoxy it in place for a strong bond, then the pan is just as good.

I've downloaded a lot of kit instructions on the web, and most of them have the installer tapping the pan.

ac

Random

The main reason I want the oil/air seperator is to keep the oil pump from picking up the "frothy" oil and pumping it around the system. Oil/Air seperators are not that expensive, and do the trick.

Curtas

How much are they and where have you seen them? I haven't looked that deep into it, but since I haven't committed to tapping anything, I'll keep my options open.

I thought the pickup is on the bottom of the tank? If so, then it may not be that much of an issue, although if the level was down a bit and you were cornering hard, it could pick up some foam.

ac