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Act Street Clutch - Slipping?!?!?!

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Old 10-13-2007, 03:22 PM
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I'm looking for advice on whats happening. I picked up an act street clutch to replace my slipping stock one.

I installed this clutch: http://www.raceinspired.com/p-7440-act-hea...-1997-2004.aspx
and a gripforce lightweight chromoly flywheel.

Anyways it seems to do pretty good at first but after some agressive driving it'll start slipping. When we installed it I bleed the clutch till there were no bubble's and the fluid was all clean.

btw, I'm running 10 psi on a good street tune.
Old 10-15-2007, 09:30 AM
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btw, before I made the purchase I called up act and talked to one of their representatives. I told him that my end goal was ~250 and he said that the clutch would have no problem with it. It also gets worse while going uphill.
Old 10-16-2007, 06:56 AM
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you need a Twin plate clutch... but its $$ I know that, I just bough one

how did you break it in, that is another Key factor, i tell my costumer's 3000 rpm no more no less and 0 boost. for at least 3000~5000k..

another problem is the Pressure plate since it a pull type its limited on clamp load, the ones they sell in the US and the one in korea like the DTM ones are totally different. the state side one must deal with all that SFI nonsense and the Korean ones don't

bottom line is that the pull type on boost will not last but from what i have seen, guys here did some strange setup using a eclipse's act push type setup. and everyone was like ohhh ahhhh. but doing that they failed to address one matter, that act pressure plate was used for eclipse not a tibby . now that may have 2400lbs of clamp load but did anyone ever think about when you push that clutch pedal that that that much pressure is also being applied to the crank as well..

the thrush bearing on the tibby crank are not that thick. and you will wear them out in time and put a rod through you block.. here back in the day that happen allot. now 2400lbs is allot when i owned a 93 sonata i tried act and lost 12 tranny in one month because of that 2400 pressure plate. it was so strong and the pedal was so heavy it push the pivot point ball witch the through out bearing fork sat on in to the case of the tranny. where is the ogura and OS don't have that heavy pedal at all.. ogura is about 1300KG of clamp load now that is 2865lbs of clamping pressure as where the OS is 2800lbs but leave it to the peps in japan to pull it off.. i say that you need about 35lbs of leg force for the Ogura and 25 for the OS..

now how can they do it... its where the diaphragm sits and pivots on that dictates how heavy and how much load is on the clutch as well as what kind of material is used and how thick it is


edit


i looked at the pic and the fingers on the diaphragm are very thick/wide/many. muhhh is your pedal heavy as hell i wonder?
Old 10-16-2007, 04:44 PM
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well... I might have made it to 10 miles before unleashing a little boost on it.

anyways the thing is other people here have used this clutch just fine for a long time. Plus as far as aftermarket clutches go it's alot milder than some but a good fit for my project. It's heavier than stock but not a ton/unbearable ( i think it's supposed to be 40% more). As it breakes in it's getting easier, or my legs getting stronger...I think it's something in the hydraulic system.
Old 10-16-2007, 05:36 PM
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New clutches throw the most dust. Until it's broken in, it will do that alot. Clutch dust = slipping. Wait for it to brake in before you apply boost. slipping + pressure = heat. That'll glaze your new clutch over. It's not that big of a deal, but you should wear it in before you wear it out.

Our cars also take a bit of time to fully engauge. You should try removing the restrictor spring in the slave cylendar.
Old 10-17-2007, 09:00 AM
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^^ I saw that diy, I might try it. I Think I'm going to go ahead and clean the clutch hydraulic system a little at the same time. When I flushed it the fluid was really really bad.
Old 10-17-2007, 08:57 PM
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you need to remove the restrictor,this thing is a joke performance wise....
Old 10-18-2007, 03:36 PM
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well a vote from denis as well, that seals it. I'll be doing that asap, hopefully it will work.

Today it rained and I've been trying not to hit boost. But I was entering 52 and was going ~45-50 and needed to speed up and punched it in 3rd and started spinning... fing02.gif Can't wait to get this thing gripping that good all the time.
Old 10-21-2007, 01:07 AM
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i know for sure that this clutch combo can hold about 12 psi on a super 60...
and trust me,car was driven hard ;-)
Old 11-01-2007, 05:02 PM
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Hey just poking in havent been around latley

And yes I was the guy who did the Eclipse clutch setup as far as what madjohn said about the crank thrust bearings not being able to hold this pressure I never had any issues. I checked the end play (the distance the crank would move from side to side when the motor was built and then after 1k and after 5k then before I sold the motor.

new .005 end to end play
1k .008
5k .008
20kish .0085

This was under hard driving and lots of boost I never had issues with the motor or clutch when I first built the setup I was also worried about the end to end play and wearing out. I would highly recomend going with a lighter pressure plate as it was a very difficult clutch to drive but it held like no tomarow. I was thinking of possibley building another motor as I still have the heart and balls of my turbo setup so it wouldnt take half as much as before. If I did do another build I would deffinitly go with the mitsu clutch setup again.




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