Rims Finally Installed.
05-01-2005, 11:33 PM
#31
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Vehicle: 1991 Olds Cutlass
did plan on getting 40's.... but then i went to get an alignment and the place happen to have a set for a good deal mounted and balanced. So i figured what the heck..... but i really like the vader/veilside knock off.. i kno how much u guys post on it and hate it, but it does not really matter to me, since my uncle is an auto body mechanic and paints and stuff, so we could do all the installing. I have heard ppl say that their's have not needed extreme modification. Plus at the moment my car is an everyday driver and could not do anything show quality to it at the moment.
05-01-2005, 11:52 PM
#33
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yeah i think i will get a fake kit, i mean, im a 17 yr school student who works maybe 15 hours a week... not too great of pay to buy a 2000$ body kit...... and yes that is the size i will plan on getting next set of tires. But i should get my clutch installed this weekend and then my hubcentric rings on at the same time, also with my d&d rotors from rotorpros, *highly recommend them for great rotors and pricing laugh.gif, oh ffast shipping too smile.gif.* But i am going to also paint my calipers at that time also, and i seen a kit at Advance Auto that i am thinking about getting. I have heard the brush kits are better? Thx
05-02-2005, 01:23 AM
#35
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Actually, there is another way, but it is at your own risk. I did this when I got my 18's about 20,000 miles ago and have had absolutely no problems.
1. take the small screw out (hub Bolt)of the rotor
2. go to home depot or a hardware store and find a tapered/flush mount screw
3. Purchase a large drill bit
4. countersink the hole in the rotor plate VERY CAREFULLY by drilling the hole out By using the flush mount screw, the screw head is now flush with the plate. You want it to be perfectly flush when that screw is tightened all the way down. The rim will actually help keep that flush mounted screw tight. If you over drill, then there is a chance that screw will loosen.
You can now fit your "universal" rim on your stock equipment without damaging the rim and the screw is still functioning like it should.
If you do this go SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Like I said, I have had no problems going on 20,000 miles.
1. take the small screw out (hub Bolt)of the rotor
2. go to home depot or a hardware store and find a tapered/flush mount screw
3. Purchase a large drill bit
4. countersink the hole in the rotor plate VERY CAREFULLY by drilling the hole out By using the flush mount screw, the screw head is now flush with the plate. You want it to be perfectly flush when that screw is tightened all the way down. The rim will actually help keep that flush mounted screw tight. If you over drill, then there is a chance that screw will loosen.
You can now fit your "universal" rim on your stock equipment without damaging the rim and the screw is still functioning like it should.
If you do this go SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Like I said, I have had no problems going on 20,000 miles.