Braking, Wheels, Tires, Suspension Modifications to Brake Rotors, Calipers, Wheels, Tires, Springs, Struts, Coilovers, Swaybars, Strut Tower Braces, etc.

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Old 12-13-2009, 05:50 PM
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i need help i have my front rotor off now and i'm trying to get everything back on but can't get the front plate with the wheels studs to go back on the axle

come on guys can't get the hub back on after i got it seperated
Old 12-13-2009, 05:57 PM
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lol, you're outta luck bud. You cant do it. Somehow, you pulled the hub off your Captive Rotor setup, and now you'll need a new bearing, as well as a shop that can press it and the hub back onto your spindle. Basically, open the yellow book and find a local machine shop, cause you wont get anywhere trying to continue where you're at. You're gonna have to unbolt the strut from the spindle, loosen but dont remove those two big bolts. Unbolt the brake line (10mm bolt). Remove the pin below the nut on the control arm, then remove the 17mm nut. The next part sucks. You'll need to get a wrench, (I acutally use a very small pipe wrench for some reason?) and right under where the axle comes out of the middle of where the rotor was, there's a nut there, You'll need to loosen that nut, and either get it all the way off (pushing the axle in as far as it'll go will help. If you cant get it all the way off, you can just take a fork (or ball joint seperator I think its called) and you'll want to make sure not to tear the rubber boot on the A arm. This is the last thing to remove to get the spindle off.

If that sounds like a lot of work, figure it all takes me maybe 15 minutes, so dont trip, but it'll cost you a buttload of cash to have a mechanic do it, plus towing the car since you cant drive it now. But just take that fork, and make sure you're just above the rubber boot, and that the nut above is loosed as I mentioned. Hammer that fork in there hard as you can. It'll seem like its not getting you anywhere. I can take pics of my tools if it'll help you understand this all better, but I'm sure there's a fat DIY here already.

Once you get that A-arm joint seperated, take out the two big bolts from the strut, and pull the spindle off. Now take that and your rotor, and go to an auto store to order a new bearing for the assemble, and take everything to a machine shop, should put you back only 20 bucks to have the assembly pressed back together. Sorry your car sucks and didn't come with non captive rotors. In the future, research before you pull that thing apart, lol.
Old 12-13-2009, 06:07 PM
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lol thanks...changed many sets of rotors in my life...din't expect this one to be so different...stupid people making things more complicated then they have to be
Old 12-13-2009, 09:04 PM
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Si. They went to a non-captive rotor setup after a small riot in Korea, which led to the death of the chief braking systems engineer at Hyundai.*

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.

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*This may not be true but it wouldn't surprise me THAT much. The captive rotor setup stinks.
Old 12-14-2009, 09:12 AM
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Yeah it's pretty gay.....good thing I just happen to work at a machine shop ATM....since that whole knunckle is out after I press the bearings out I'll throw them in the sandblaster and give the a quick coat of paint
Old 12-14-2009, 09:20 AM
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stocker, it makes for good folklore and i agree, captive rotors suck, just reading the horror stories about them.
Old 12-14-2009, 03:01 PM
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right on man, glad to know you'll be able to sort this out on your own then. I first tried to tackle a rotor swap when I started modding my Tiburon years ago, and found out I had captive rotors (DOH!). So after I realized that wasn't gonna go easily, I went to install an AEM intake, then I found out I had a stupid charcoal canister in the way (DOH! Rev A strikes twice). Then I just owned that b!tch and ripped her guts out and had my full way with her, lol.




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