just received rotors, are they supposed to be rough to the touch?
01-09-2002, 10:11 AM
#11
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hey random
update on my rotors and pads!!
i got the rotors smooth as a baby like u said b4 and i also bought new pads...
but i have a even bigger problem now.....
my car does not move
when i put it in "D" it doesnt move
when i put it in R" it doesnt move back
i have to literally get it up to around 2000rpms to even get it to move and after i take my foot off the gas the car comes to a slightly jerky stop as if the brakes are being applied
i want to ask u what is the reason for bleeding the brakes???
cause i found the process of taking off the rotors and calipers rather easy, but since my car wont move im thinking i HAD to have done somethin wrong
im gonna admit, that it slipped my mind to bleed the brakes but if im just changing out pads and rotors, then im still not understanding the need for that.,..can u explain to me why that is needed
well even after i noticed the car would not move, i did not have time to bleed the brakes simply becuase i had to go to work and it was gettin dark
help me out, again, please!
update on my rotors and pads!!
i got the rotors smooth as a baby like u said b4 and i also bought new pads...
but i have a even bigger problem now.....
my car does not move
when i put it in "D" it doesnt move
when i put it in R" it doesnt move back
i have to literally get it up to around 2000rpms to even get it to move and after i take my foot off the gas the car comes to a slightly jerky stop as if the brakes are being applied
i want to ask u what is the reason for bleeding the brakes???
cause i found the process of taking off the rotors and calipers rather easy, but since my car wont move im thinking i HAD to have done somethin wrong
im gonna admit, that it slipped my mind to bleed the brakes but if im just changing out pads and rotors, then im still not understanding the need for that.,..can u explain to me why that is needed
well even after i noticed the car would not move, i did not have time to bleed the brakes simply becuase i had to go to work and it was gettin dark
help me out, again, please!
01-09-2002, 10:33 AM
#12
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You bleed the brakes to remove any airbubbles in the brake line.
you can compress gas (compressed air), but you cannot compress liquid (well, you can, but it is really fricking hard). Since you cant compress liquid, it is used in braking systems, to equate Brake pedal movement to caliper movement.
however, if there is air in the brake line, or in the caliper, the air compresses and the calipers do not move.
THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM!
Your problem is that your calipers are squeezing the brake pads against the rotors constantly.
Remove the cover off the Brake Fluid resivor. That should return the system to neutural pressure (no brakes applied). Then put it back on.
If that does not work, try this.
Leave the cap off.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the caliper (going to be damn hard if it is sqeezing the rotor).
Remove the new pads from the caliper
using a c-clamp or press, gently and slowly press the caliper pistion back inside. STOP WHEN THE CALIPER PISTION IS FLUSH or within 1/8" WITH THE CALIPER WALL.
Then re-install the pads
Re-install the wheel
Put the cover back on the brake fluid resivoir.
Go for a short test drive. Hopefully that solved the problem.
When you did this the first time, did you take the resivor cover off when you pushed the caliper pistion back in? What did you use to push the caliper piston back in?
you can compress gas (compressed air), but you cannot compress liquid (well, you can, but it is really fricking hard). Since you cant compress liquid, it is used in braking systems, to equate Brake pedal movement to caliper movement.
however, if there is air in the brake line, or in the caliper, the air compresses and the calipers do not move.
THIS IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM!
Your problem is that your calipers are squeezing the brake pads against the rotors constantly.
Remove the cover off the Brake Fluid resivor. That should return the system to neutural pressure (no brakes applied). Then put it back on.
If that does not work, try this.
Leave the cap off.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the caliper (going to be damn hard if it is sqeezing the rotor).
Remove the new pads from the caliper
using a c-clamp or press, gently and slowly press the caliper pistion back inside. STOP WHEN THE CALIPER PISTION IS FLUSH or within 1/8" WITH THE CALIPER WALL.
Then re-install the pads
Re-install the wheel
Put the cover back on the brake fluid resivoir.
Go for a short test drive. Hopefully that solved the problem.
When you did this the first time, did you take the resivor cover off when you pushed the caliper pistion back in? What did you use to push the caliper piston back in?
01-09-2002, 11:17 AM
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ok random
well no i did not remove the top of the brake fluid
well i will definteily do that when i get off work today at 7am!
also i used the big wrench that comes with the car when u buy it, u kno the one used to take the lugs off.............
and you are right about pushing the piston in too far
ALTHOUGH I DIDNT KNOW THAT PUSING IT IN TO FAR IS A BAD THING, WELL I QUICKLY RETIFY THIS PROBLEM AND GIVE U A UPDATE
MAN I DONT KNO WHAT I WOULDA DONE WITHOUT YA THANKS A MILLION MAN!!
well no i did not remove the top of the brake fluid
well i will definteily do that when i get off work today at 7am!
also i used the big wrench that comes with the car when u buy it, u kno the one used to take the lugs off.............
and you are right about pushing the piston in too far
ALTHOUGH I DIDNT KNOW THAT PUSING IT IN TO FAR IS A BAD THING, WELL I QUICKLY RETIFY THIS PROBLEM AND GIVE U A UPDATE
MAN I DONT KNO WHAT I WOULDA DONE WITHOUT YA THANKS A MILLION MAN!!
01-10-2002, 05:09 AM
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hey random
i got some updates!!
ok i did what u said about the brake resovoir and that DID work!!
but i also forgot to put the washer back on the 2 caliper bolts and thats were i was gettin a scraping sound, i didnt tell ya that, but i didnt realize it was the caliper bolts until i look down and saw the bolts actually touching the back side of the rotor
everything seems fine and back to normal but i have a few "paranoia" questions i want to ask
umm am i supposed to hear a hissing noise when i apply the brakes......and also what am i expected to do besides the normal "take it easy on them" routine for my brakes to be actin and sounding like normal.....
and lastly i kinda hear a weird "churning" noise is i guess what u can call it while i drive the car at low speeds (not braking!)
is all these things normal or am i making my self more worried than i should be considering they are new brake pads and rotors.....
i got some updates!!
ok i did what u said about the brake resovoir and that DID work!!
but i also forgot to put the washer back on the 2 caliper bolts and thats were i was gettin a scraping sound, i didnt tell ya that, but i didnt realize it was the caliper bolts until i look down and saw the bolts actually touching the back side of the rotor
everything seems fine and back to normal but i have a few "paranoia" questions i want to ask
umm am i supposed to hear a hissing noise when i apply the brakes......and also what am i expected to do besides the normal "take it easy on them" routine for my brakes to be actin and sounding like normal.....
and lastly i kinda hear a weird "churning" noise is i guess what u can call it while i drive the car at low speeds (not braking!)
is all these things normal or am i making my self more worried than i should be considering they are new brake pads and rotors.....
01-10-2002, 09:10 AM
#15
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QUOTE
Originally posted by green 2k accent:
hey random
i got some updates!!
ok i did what u said about the brake resovoir and that DID work!!
I had a feeling it would, and I though that was what was wrong. When you pushed the pistion back in, on one caliper, you pushed the pistons back out on the other three brakes. (that is why you take the cover off, so the pressure has somewhere to go...OUT!).hey random
i got some updates!!
ok i did what u said about the brake resovoir and that DID work!!
QUOTE
Originally posted by green 2k accent:
but i also forgot to put the washer back on the 2 caliper bolts and thats were i was gettin a scraping sound, i didnt tell ya that, but i didnt realize it was the caliper bolts until i look down and saw the bolts actually touching the back side of the rotor
but i also forgot to put the washer back on the 2 caliper bolts and thats were i was gettin a scraping sound, i didnt tell ya that, but i didnt realize it was the caliper bolts until i look down and saw the bolts actually touching the back side of the rotor
DOH!!!!!! Whenever you have left over parts or washers...that's a BAD THING! *lol*
QUOTE
Originally posted by green 2k accent:
umm am i supposed to hear a hissing noise when i apply the brakes
yes, new pads and new rotors "slide" against eachother untill they bed in. This "slide" sounds like a "hiss". It will go away as the pads/rotors bed in.umm am i supposed to hear a hissing noise when i apply the brakes
QUOTE
Originally posted by green 2k accent:
what am i expected to do besides the normal "take it easy on them" routine for my brakes to be actin and sounding like normal.
what am i expected to do besides the normal "take it easy on them" routine for my brakes to be actin and sounding like normal.
Bedding in new rotors is a PITA, but if you do it right, it works.
When the rotors and pads are 100% new and fresh, do 6-8 moderate/normal 30mph to 0 stops. Then let the brakes cool for at least 4 hours. Then do 6-8 moderate/normal 60pmh-0mph stops, let the brakes cool for 4-6 hours. Then do 10-15 30mph to 0 HARD stops, drive for about 30 minutes to let the brakes cool down but not cool down completely, then do 10-15 60mph-0 HARD stops. Then let the brakes cool 8 hours.
If you do that your rotors should be fairly warp proof, and the rotor and pads will be proper bedded in.
QUOTE
Originally posted by green 2k accent:
i kinda hear a weird "churning" noise is i guess what u can call it while i drive the car at low speeds (not braking!)
i kinda hear a weird "churning" noise is i guess what u can call it while i drive the car at low speeds (not braking!)
That is the new pads slowly dragging across the rotors as you drive. With the pressure problem you had with your brakes, it's possible that there is still some pressure built up in the system. Eventually the part of the pads that are dragging will wear away, however, they will heat up and cause premature wear along your rotor where they are rubbing. Try removing the Brake resivoir cap right after a drive, while the car is hot. Leave it off for 30 seconds, then put it back on. Do it again first thing in the morning before you go anywhere, when everything is nice and cold. That should guarantee that there is NO residual pressure in the braking system and it should stop the pads from dragging or rubbing when the brake pedal is not applied.
If that does NOT work, check the pads to make sure they are secure in the caliper, and that they are "square" with the rotor. Sometimes a pad can get off an an angle "/" or "", and one end of the pad will drag. Try to straighen out the pad CAREFULLY with a flathead screwdriver. DO NOT PRESS ON TEH FRICTION MATERIAL of the PAD! ONLY ON THE METAL OF THE PAD. If you manage to get them straight again, check them again in 24 to 48 hours to see if the pad is at and angle again. If so, the pads might be a bit underspec not fit the caliper right, or maybe they were just not installed properly the first time. Un-install the caliper and re seat the pads in the caliper. If this does not fix the problem, do NOT drive like that. Take the pads back to where you got them from and ask for a new set of pads. The new pads should hopefully fit better.