Hey whats up, im going to get the eibach 1.2 kit for my tibby pretty soon, and i want to know how hard it is to do this my self and what would be involved? I asked a dude that works at my local hyundai dealer ship and he told me he would do it for 200! is that a good deal or a rip off? Also if u didnt kno i got 18's, when i make a turn will the tires rub with the 1.2 kit, is this too low or a drop? or do i need to roll the fenders??? soo many questions soo lil time hehe sad.gif

 

That's pretty sweet that your dealer said they'd install your lowering springs, but $200 is a bit steep. My local shop said they'd do it for $100 and that's just because they've never worked on a Hyundai. I would only do it through your dealer for $200 if they are going to honor your warranty on all suspension compnents including your struts and warranty the work done. Hope that makes sense.

You might be looking at rubbing on any hard bumps or corners. You may want to roll your fenders a bit. The width is important. You probably have 8" wide rims with those 18's. In that case I would defenitely be careful. If they are 7" wide with the prooper offset you should be fine. Again I am not a professional so please don't take my advise like I am one. Just throwing some info at you that I have heard over the last year. I have 17x7.5" wide rims with a +40 offset and 205/40ZR17 tires. The other people on the forums have told me I will be just fine with the Eibach drop...as long as I stay off the rally tracks, he he.

 

Ok first off...an Eibach drop will be fine with your rims..just as long as you take it easy going around sharp corners.

2nd..it's not too hard to install the springs yourself. Just make sure you have a good spring compressor. You can either rent one for like 20-25 bux, or buy one from around $40-45. Having a friend with you can help things also. By doing it yourself, it'll probably take you between 3-4 hours, and that's using just regular hand tools. Power tools will definitly make things easier and quicker.

3rd..if you do have your dealer install them, $200 is a good price considering a DEALER is doing it. They usually charge like 60-75 per hour to do any type of work. So 200 is pretty good. But like Zeek said...I would find out if they're gonna warranty the work. Also, find out if the alignment is included in that price. If it is, then I say definitly go for it!

4th..you really shouldn't have to worry about rolling your fenders with an Eibach drop...unless you plan on always taking sharp turns and corners, or if there is no way to miss any major pot holes in your area. Also, if you do plan on doing any type of auto-x events, then rolling your fenders would be a good idea too.

Good luck!

 

I knew 2klow would have a few thoughts. I'm thinking im goning to be helping/doing mine also @ the same time with him. We should be able to knock out 2 shark in one Saturday. Could someone please list the tools needed so we can be ready. Also is an alignment reccomend afterwords? Are normal tibby jacks good enough (safe) or would two floor jacks be better? If so I'll invest.....if it's safer.

Side question: How often does a ail filter need to be changed

(Note to self: paint calp's and drop @ the same time)


If im going to go with 17's..should i look into a lower spring? Rather than the 1.2 Eich. ones? Any thoughts/url's/prices.

 

Okay..I'll try and answer your questions the best I possibly can.

You're gonna need just basic tools.

-17mm wrench
-14mm wrench
-17mm socket
-14mm socket
-12mm socket
-10mm socket
-3/8" drive ratchet
-Torque Wrench
-screwdrivers (phillips and standard)
-coil spring compressor (either rent or buy one from any local automotive store like Pep Boys or Autozone)

Now..you can use just these basic tools, but remember it's gonna be tough, unless you have power tools. Otherwise be sure to have a couple of cans of WD-40 laying around to loosen up some bolts and nuts.

Lowering The Front

1. Jack up your car on whatever corner you wish to start on, I started with the front drivers. Remove the dust cap with your straight screwdriver from the top of the strut (under hood). Loosen the 17mm nut (it is caked with grease in there), DO NOT remove the nut. Remove the 4 14mm nuts from the strut tower.


2. Remove the wheel, it makes a good safety device to put under the brake disc (not really necessary unless you expect to knock your car off the jack). Remove the 10mm nut that attaches your brake line to the strut. Now for the hard part, wedge your ratchet or wrench on the bolt side of the 17mm strut bolt. Use the other on the nut side to break loose the bolt These bolts are on very tight, so make sure you have some muscle built up, if you're using regular tools. Remove both bolts.

3. Remove the strut. It is not real easy, but the strut can be massaged out of your wheel well without any other parts removed.

4. Use your coil spring compressor to shrink your spring a bit so that it relieves the pressure on the top of the strut assembly. It's gonna take some muscle and a little time to get it to compress with just basic tools. Make sure to read the instructions that come with the spring compressor and use the safety hooks. Make sure to compress the spring evenly or bad things could happen. Once it is compressed you can remove the 17mm nut that you loosened previously. Remove the swiveling plate and the top strut plate, then the spring.

5. Remove the spring compressor from this spring and put it on your new spring. Place the spring on, making sure the notched portion of the bottom and top spring plates coincide with the ends of the springs and that the rubber is in place. Replace the swivel and the nut. You won't be able to completely tighten it yet. Remove the spring compressor.

6. Reassembly, they go back in the same way they came off. Make note of the larger "bump" on the swivel plate. You can see where it needs to go back in (I believe toward the outside of the fender). Replace the top 3 nuts but do not tighten them yet.
Replace and tighten the lower bolts. Now tighten the three on the top, and the 17mm nut in the shock. Replace the 10mm bolt and brake line.

Lowering The Rear

This is basically the same, with a few exceptions.

1. Remove the hatch to cabin spacer.
Remove the 5 phillips screws that hold the plastic trim to the car (The bit that holds the spacer).


2. Underneath you will find a metal panel with 3 (I think) 10mm nuts and 1 phillips screw. Remove this piece as well.

3. Now you have access to the dust cap and 3 strut nuts. These nuts are 12mm instead of 14mm, but the nut under the dust cap is 17mm. The dust cap is a little different, rubber instead of plastic so you don't need the screwdriver to remove it.

4. Removal is the same on the bottom end with the exception of the brake line, and the anti-sway bar link. The brake line is removed by removing a small clip with screwdriver and hammer. The brake line slides out after the clip is removed.


5. Remove the sway bar link by using the 14mm wrench on the ball joint side and the 14mm socket on the nut side.

6. When you pull the strut out it will be more difficult due to the sway bar link. The spring comes off the same and goes on the same.

7. Put it back together as you took it apart. The "L portion" of the brake line clip goes up or you won't have any tension and it will fall off. The top plate can only go one way here by the way it is shaped.




It depends. Some people like to wait a couple of weeks before getting one done because they want their springs to settle before having everything all fixed. Otherwise, if you don't really care about that small of a drop (like a .1-.3" drop) for settling, then get an alignment done right after lowering the car.



Well, you're gonna need a couple good floor jacks. You could get a good floor jack and use that for your body lifts, and then use the regular Hyundai Jack for the small suspension parts. I would truly think about getting 4 jack stands though. That way, you can lift the entire car right up off the ground.



It's all personal preference dude. Some people like just the basic drop, while others want their car down in the weeds. You have to look at the Pro's & Con's of each type of spring.
The Eibachs don't have that low of a drop, but they're one of the best when it comes down to handling and ride quality. Also, you can get away with keeping your factory struts/shocks with an Eibach drop, and your suspension won't suffer too much.

Going with a bigger drop spring like B&G or H&R (both have a 1.5" drop), or even Intrax (2") gives you get a better drop height, but then your ride quality might suffer a little without aftermarket struts/shocks.

Also, you should have no problems at all running with any of the springs I listed here, with a 17" rim and tire combo. But then again, it all depends on your offset and the width of the rims.

Hope I helped some. Good Luck!

[ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: 2000Lo&ShowTibby ]

 

Where is that music coming from?

AHHH it won't go away smile.gif

 

So solly sad.gif ..it was me with the music. I got a little bored while writing all the tech instructions out.....figured I would add a little something extra.

Won't happen again! wink.gif

 

LoL thanks, well i guess im going to buy the eibachs this week and next weekend ill try to hit it with fast.shark! Btw the dealer said if i buy the springs from him he'll let them slide... yay soo does 240 for the eibach kit sound like a fair price? thanks agn fred!

 

If that includes shipping then go for it. Most places like Tire Rack advertise them for like $229 + S&H. If they're going to have the total price be $240 (springs w/ shipping) + $200 for install AND allignment +warranty the work and stock componenets, then go for it! I might have to go talk to my dealership. I would've a long time ago except fot the fact that they're bloomin' idiots!