Braking, Wheels, Tires, Suspension Modifications to Brake Rotors, Calipers, Wheels, Tires, Springs, Struts, Coilovers, Swaybars, Strut Tower Braces, etc.

Gonna give my Tib a brake job

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Old 05-31-2004 | 12:32 PM
  #21  
iamcyclopseatme's Avatar
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Sorry to bring a dead post to life, but on the topic of pushing in the front pistons w/ a C-Clamp, Ive always done my breaks (on other cars, not my tib yet) by opening the bleeder valve and just hand pushing the piston back in.. Never seems to have caused a problem, just need to bleed the brakes after..
Old 05-31-2004 | 12:51 PM
  #22  
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QUOTE (iamcyclopseatme)
Sorry to bring a dead post to life, but on the topic of pushing in the front pistons w/ a C-Clamp, Ive always done my breaks (on other cars, not my tib yet) by opening the bleeder valve and just hand pushing the piston back in.. Never seems to have caused a problem, just need to bleed the brakes after..


Don't worry about bringing it back to life, especially since you're adding on useful info. You can do it the way you mentioned, there's nothing wrong with it. Most of us will prefer to do it by compressing the caliper with the c- clamp though. It saves times by not having to bleed the brakes, saves money by not having to purchase brake fluid, and can be done with one person (I know you can get one man brake bleeding kits, but they kinda suck).

I don't like to let brake fluid out unless I have to. It reduces the risk of getting it on braking surfaces as well as your paint. It's just my opinion though.
Old 05-31-2004 | 03:56 PM
  #23  
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Just remember.. replace your brake fluid every two years or so... it is Hydorscopic.. meaning it absorbs water right out of the air.. and it WILL draw it in through the seals and even the flexible lines... the more water in the fluid.. the quicker and harder it fades and the more likely you are to have rust in the braking system...




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