I'm off to the shop to troubleshoot my brakes and figure out why one side of the rotor still has the origonal machine marks on it but the other side is worn in. I used white lithium grease on my caliper guides. Is there something else I should be using?

 

front or rear brakes?

I find that the rears tend to only wear the inside the rotors and leave the outside looking decent. This seems to be why the caliper guides usually freeze up on the rears and not the fronts.

Not sure how high temp the lithium grease is.. but you need some stuff that can take some very high temperatures.

 

It says it resists heat. I used it again.

I found that there was some dirt inside my rear top guide, causing it to be a gritty movement rather then smooth and only push on the inside brake pad. My front top guide was packed too much with grease and it was rubbing the outside too much. I hope everything is square now, my next option is to buy new calipers.

 

i wouldnt use plain lithium grease, even if it is heat resistant. caliper grease is available at most stores, and is ment to take the crazy temps surrounding brake areas. regular lithium grease probably gets runny when it gets hot, which is nobueno.

 

^^ Thanks man. I didn't know they had that stuff. When I worked in a army motorpools we greased Humvee's calipers with whatever high temp grease we had available which was usually white lithium... I dont like to do that with my car.

I noticed after braking really hard it seems my car rolls a bit less freely. Like it will stop rolling on an extremely light slope at a stop light or something. Other then that, it drives like it has new brakes.

I think tomorrow I'm going to put off my long term project of remolding my TV from my rear seat to my rear hatch cover. Even though I already hit the shop once with this issue, I'll hit the store then start q-tipping out the old grease and replacing it with new.. It can't hurt.

 

Yep... For future reference... Lithium grease dosn't work on tiburons like it does on humvees. Like Tibby01 said, it got runny, the stuff dried up. It probly has something to do with the ammount of heat because of smaller parts.

 

I found a brake lubrication chart on webtech (shop/brake system/conventional/rear/assembly):

Parts - Recommended lubricant - Quantity

Piston seal - Brake fluid (Dot 3) - As required

Cylinder inner side - Brake fluid (Dot 3) - As required

Piston boot - Brake fluid (Dot 3) - As required

Piston outer surface - Brake fluid (Dot 3) - As required

Guide-rod insulation - Rubber grease - As required


Hope this helps.

 

Thanks. Any ideas on how to get the piston out? I might just do some caliper maintenance if this continues. I really think I'm squared away now though, but if it continues I must try some other things to get my brakes up to par. I'm not buying a set of calipers.

 

I would think pressing the brake pedal with the caliper taken apart will push the piston out. Not sure how easy it is to put it back though (you can proably do that once the brake line is disconnected)

 

Nothing special about pulling it out for lubrication? Just pump the brakes, lube the suxor, then c-clamp it back in later?

I never knew it needed maintenance. I guess it makes sence though. I'd never heard or seen that done before.