About to buy rotors and pads...
02-19-2005, 12:21 PM
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About to buy rotors and pads *Now installed w/ pics*
And I'm thinking about this auction from seller R1 Concepts. $140 base price for four rotors + $20 for gold zinc plating or $28 for black + $36 shipping. So I'm looking at $176 shipped for slotted/drilled and silver zinc. Add $90 shipped for a full set of Axxis Metal Master pads online if I go with those.
That seller is the cheapest for the options. There are half a dozen other sellers from CA, all with what look like the same rotors, probably from the same manufacturer, but charging $40 for different color zinc plating, and higher shipping. I'm not sure if black plating is worth the extra cost, anyone know how that holds up?
Or I'll go for this full package for $300 + $46 shipping, which comes with Axxis Ultimate ceramic pads.
Anyone think I should just go for the Rotora GB on NT? That's $220 +SH for slotted, $285 for slotted/drilled, and $86 for Rotora pads. The comparable package would be over $100 more.
Looking for some advice from people who have upgraded rotors before. I don't have the funds for a BBK, and I'm in need of new rear rotors immediately. Car-part.com has 'em for as little as $20 for a set of rears, but after shipping and getting them turned I may as well get aftermarket.
That seller is the cheapest for the options. There are half a dozen other sellers from CA, all with what look like the same rotors, probably from the same manufacturer, but charging $40 for different color zinc plating, and higher shipping. I'm not sure if black plating is worth the extra cost, anyone know how that holds up?
Or I'll go for this full package for $300 + $46 shipping, which comes with Axxis Ultimate ceramic pads.
Anyone think I should just go for the Rotora GB on NT? That's $220 +SH for slotted, $285 for slotted/drilled, and $86 for Rotora pads. The comparable package would be over $100 more.
Looking for some advice from people who have upgraded rotors before. I don't have the funds for a BBK, and I'm in need of new rear rotors immediately. Car-part.com has 'em for as little as $20 for a set of rears, but after shipping and getting them turned I may as well get aftermarket.
02-23-2005, 11:04 AM
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I have the slotted rotors from the GB we had a few months ago. Combined with the DOT4 fluid, the braided lines (no problems yet) and Hawk racing pads... it has made for an amazing braking machine. The first time I hit the brakes hard, which would have slowed the car, but locked any of the wheels.. I locked up all four of mine.
I think you would be happy with either of those packages. I do tend to stay away from drilled rotors though, they tend to crack under hard use.
I think you would be happy with either of those packages. I do tend to stay away from drilled rotors though, they tend to crack under hard use.
02-23-2005, 01:09 PM
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Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
I am very pleased with RotorPros rotors and service. Not sure if Rotora=RotorPros but I say go with the GB. Sounds good to me!
02-23-2005, 02:22 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I've been doing a lot of research and it looks like irotors gets good comments on many forums, although they still haven't responded to my email. I've also emailed several other sellers, and some were very thorough in their response. Even though they are all drilled with a radius chamfer, I'm going for slotted only. Just seems like a safer bet when long rotor life is a consideration.
Although one seller is selling drilled only dirt cheap. But those look like OEM blanks with no zinc plating. Not worth it. I'm getting slotted only, probably with black zinc.
I think I'll wait for the next group buy to get a set of SS lines. I don't want to mess around with those when it comes to quality.
Although one seller is selling drilled only dirt cheap. But those look like OEM blanks with no zinc plating. Not worth it. I'm getting slotted only, probably with black zinc.
I think I'll wait for the next group buy to get a set of SS lines. I don't want to mess around with those when it comes to quality.
03-18-2005, 08:13 PM
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I went with forum racing, and got black zinc, slotted only, $200 shipped. They should look nice once they're installed. Which will most assuredly take all weekend.
I have a few major blisters developing from hammering all day at the passenger side front rotor. Ugh. And I thought cuts and bruises were bad. I just bought a 3lb, super ergonomic hammer to replace the 24oz wood-handled turd I have been using all day. Should make the rest of the rotors a lot easier to remove.
To everyone who posted that their rotors slipped right off: I hate you all. mad.gif Here's what I got done after five hours:
If you think the front looks bad, wait until I get to the back.
After hours of hammering, and a few beers to dull the frustration. Rust is stronger than proper welds I swear.
I probably used a third of a can of PB on this rotor alone. It definitely got back there though. I doubt it would have come off without it.
Old vs new. It's actually black, photo is overexposed.
I spent a lot of time cleaning the hub of rust. I don't want to go through this again. Note the Dogfish Head Raison D'Etre. Definitely the best overall US beer. wink1.gif
I decided to paint it with the same stuff I'll be using on the calipers. Hopefully the paint won't be a problem. Two thin coats, studs are taped.
That's as far as I got. Hopefully I can get this finished tomorrow now that I have a better hammer. I know my neighbors hate me now, I was slamming away for hours.
I have a few major blisters developing from hammering all day at the passenger side front rotor. Ugh. And I thought cuts and bruises were bad. I just bought a 3lb, super ergonomic hammer to replace the 24oz wood-handled turd I have been using all day. Should make the rest of the rotors a lot easier to remove.
To everyone who posted that their rotors slipped right off: I hate you all. mad.gif Here's what I got done after five hours:
If you think the front looks bad, wait until I get to the back.
After hours of hammering, and a few beers to dull the frustration. Rust is stronger than proper welds I swear.
I probably used a third of a can of PB on this rotor alone. It definitely got back there though. I doubt it would have come off without it.
Old vs new. It's actually black, photo is overexposed.
I spent a lot of time cleaning the hub of rust. I don't want to go through this again. Note the Dogfish Head Raison D'Etre. Definitely the best overall US beer. wink1.gif
I decided to paint it with the same stuff I'll be using on the calipers. Hopefully the paint won't be a problem. Two thin coats, studs are taped.
That's as far as I got. Hopefully I can get this finished tomorrow now that I have a better hammer. I know my neighbors hate me now, I was slamming away for hours.
03-18-2005, 08:27 PM
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Yeah, that's on my to do list, but I'll probably have to pas on the GB, even though those are great lines (I use goodridge on my bike). Funds are short. Also, I'd want to replace the OEM metal lines as well, which look pretty beat up. Whenever I get to that, then new, soundproofed fenders will go in as well.
03-19-2005, 12:18 AM
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Hmm. That looks somewhat worse than mine.eek.gif Did you use a puller to remove? How did that happen? Good grief man.
I just applied another soaking of PB Blaster to my three remaining rotors. Hopefully they will come off without too much hassle. I've probably contaminated my bearings with that stuff though. I'm worried that I have anyway. I guess I'll check the grease while I'm at it.
I just applied another soaking of PB Blaster to my three remaining rotors. Hopefully they will come off without too much hassle. I've probably contaminated my bearings with that stuff though. I'm worried that I have anyway. I guess I'll check the grease while I'm at it.