Kit-Fox

The whole thing fit realy nicely, and it works much better then the stock one, i actualy feel a diferance in the ride, not entirely significant but if u drive daily its there.

FUI the stabelizer link is the grey thing in the pic thats how it looks like in the rear, its loacted more verticale in the front.

LarryMcFly

Here is a little post made on another forum :

I recomend solid blanks for Solo1 and regional racing.The slots serve as a cosmetic feature only.Slotted rotors increase your stopping distances because of the reduced surface area.

Think of the rotor as a tire.If you have grooves in the tire(TREAD) you reduce the surface area so they don't grip as well as a slick (No Tread).Quality blank rotors are best for competition.

People are going to respond to my FACTS, not my personal opinions about this matter by saying that slotts de- gas and or de- glase the pads.

Modern racing brake pads are made with non-organic materials that do not gas like the old days.Prior 1985.
In the old days brake pads were made with Formaldehyde, Cashew nut shell oil, Barytes, Lime, Zinc, Copper,Brass, lead,gum rubber,carbon black,graphite,Sulphur and Asbestos.

When this toxic mess was heated and pressed under extreme pressure(100 plus tonnes) in the presence of air ,only the outside skin of the thick brake pad would polymerize.The polymers in the compound have not cross linked fully.This is called a Unsaturated state that has free linkages which can join with other atoms and molecules to form a different product.To combat this problem in racing, the engineers created the slotted rotor to peel away the outer layer of the pad.The pads new layer would then Polymerize under the heat of the rotor and pressure of the caliper to keep the consistancy of the brake feel uniform.(NO FADE)

The modern day Racing brake pads are designed for total polymer saturation where the polymers cross-linking is fully complete after it leaves the press and you have a sound product.
No need for the slotts.

Re-cap
1985 and older brake pads- Unsaturated polymers which still has free linkages which can join with other atoms and molecules to form a different product than you intended.

Modern day racing pads-Are refered as Saturated polymers where the cross linking of atoms and molecules are totally complete.

silvertibbs

Wow.

But those are racing pads he's talking about right? There still is a reason to have the slotted rotors with non racing pads. Just not as much as before 1985.

Nice post though McFly.

fonseca

Slots scrape the pad clean, ensuring a fresh, even pad surface and preventing glazing. Speaking of glazing, you should have seen how glazed my last pads were, worst I've ever seen. I'm betting that my new slotted setup won't have that problem.

Slots also collect brake dust, and are supposed to dump it in clumps, keeping the wheels slightly cleaner. And, like drilled rotors, slots help prevent out-gassing.

I wouldn't get drilled rotors, even with chamfered holes. If you search car forums you will find plenty of people with cracked drilled rotors. And there doesn't seem to be many benefits other than looks. Weight reduction at the cost of less surface area and strength. Compared to drilled rotors, there's less surface area lost with slotted only, and some nice benefits. Larry's post is talking about racing pads. Glazing and gassing is definitely still an issue with the pads we use.

Edit: as for the Tiburon ride quality, what zoned thinks of as improving the ride quality, I consider ruining it. And I would have to agree that it's awesome, not sh;tty. The Tiburon with Eibachs handles better than any of the other cars in the same class I tested before making my choice. No dive, no wallowing, nice firm ride that corners amazingly. That's a good thing, not bad.

Dynamo^Joe

I do vibration analysis for a living and on the side been doing little bit of personal research regarding the Rough Ride suspension question presented.

I'll explain what I know...
Rough ride is part of dynamics involved in "NVH"
NVH is an acronym for "Noise/Vibration/Harshness" - this is a measure of vehicle "feel".
NVH is a combined measure of:
i] The noise level in the car during driving.
ii] The vibration that can be felt by the customer during driving
iii] The harshness of the vehicle ride during abrupt transitions in vehicle motion; A pothole or crack that cycles the suspension.

When a product is built that has components in it that cycle back n forth like your car suspension, your home air conditioner, your fridge, even the carpet underlay on your living room floor...at one point in the operation/development research there is a study done on the NVH related to the use of the product.

Regarding the car, in many respects NVH is a subjective measure of vehicle performance. NVH performance relates to the vibration response of the vehicle to driving conditions. Stiffness of the vehicle structure, the mass of the vehicle, and the damping effects of the vehicle suspension. There are only two ways to reduce vibration. Stiffen the structure or Increase the mass.

I drive 100 kms each way to work/home. I'm getting old [36], well that's not really old but I find I want quiet in my vehicle. I don't want to feel the road coming through my arse and hear the tire slapping on the pavement cracks/potholes...etc, yaknowwhatImean?
I don't want to play the stereo loud anymore, I want the inside of my car quiet so when the stereo is on, I can hear it crystal clear and no need for being excessive loud. Im not turning into a crankypuss, Im trying to do some "time management" its just that After an hour ride home from work I always have things to do so I want to use my drive in the car to "wind down" after work instead of winding down when I get home then have to get off my butt to go and do something.

I been looking at interior sound deadener and firewall soundproofing like diesel powered vehicles have.
As far as suspenion goes, I like the soft ride my car has but certain bumps on the highway I would like dampened. I want to work the suspension in my car to make it work like it has increased mass to move...without making the vehicle heavier. Since I don't have shocks where I can change the low speed or high speed valve stack, this component called "Cellasto" looks like it will work pretty good.
From what I know of it there would be an additional benefit from using it that it would decrease body roll in corners yet still have a plush personality.

I've asked BASF Canada if its possible to get a catalogue of material sizes and prices. Im very interested in trying some of these Cellasto components to go over the shock shafts.
The Skidoo snowmobile I ride uses a Cellasto type material on the suspension shocks as a "Stopper" to prevent metal to metal contact when the shock is bottom'd out.

http://www2.basf.de/basf2/html/plastics/im...sto_Noise_e.pdf

Read the 3 paragraphs regarding:
[...the noise and vibration level must drop]
[The conflict of objectives":driving comfort vs driving dynamics]
[Solving the conflict with a new-old material]

This may not be the most reasonable product however im just throwing out an idea to generate interest, raise a few questions and get the topic to grow.